best marine crimps

[FAST FRED]

The above photos look great BUT ,the first pail of sea water might be exciting

all the wire ends do die in time and to replace a few would require a huge (ugly)repair.

www.sanchem.com NO_OX ID has been written up by Practical sailor as effective.

[War Whoop]

Originally Posted by powerabout

what about the red sweeps or when does a fitting become a pipe?

Dude a fitting becomes a pipe? When you buy it by the Foot or Meter, I would guess for one and DOES not come in Box with a part number would be a second clue,Third the absence of a large delivery truck when it comes to the shop door by UPS or Fedex.

They are Fittings got it and not cheap ones at that! Damn guy a little knowledge is dangerous ,these are 100+ MPH offshore boats in some cases and the job has to be robust and well done to be trouble free.

[War Whoop]

Originally Posted by FAST FRED

The above photos look great BUT ,the first pail of sea water might be exciting

all the wire ends do die in time and to replace a few would require a huge (ugly)repair.

www.sanchem.com NO_OX ID has been written up by Practical sailor as effective.

The Wiring is exactly the same in the offshore race boats built there also that Have to live in a sea mist and splash, with no problems, in a high speed offshore boat and none of the wiring can be left "loose" it will vibrate and fail from the 1000's of heavy slamming loads imposed on the boat.

[FAST FRED]

"The Wiring is exactly the same in the offshore race boats built there also that Have to live in a sea mist and splash, with no problems, "

I'm sure they work fine on a racing boat.

Most cruisers will be looking for a 20 -40 year service life , not a 20-40 RACES service life.

What works on a throw away racing toy might not be the best choice for Mom & Pop?

Although superb workmanship never looses.

FF

[gonzo]

The needs are different. A racing high speed boat needs wiring that can stand high accelerations. On a cruiser, long term corrosion is the main problem.

[PAR]

On a cruiser, long term corrosion is the main problem.

and vibration and strain relief . . .

[War Whoop]

Originally Posted by FAST FRED

"The Wiring is exactly the same in the offshore race boats built there also that Have to live in a sea mist and splash, with no problems, "

I'm sure they work fine on a racing boat.

Most cruisers will be looking for a 20 -40 year service life , not a 20-40 RACES service life.

What works on a throw away racing toy might not be the best choice for Mom & Pop?

Although superb workmanship never looses.

FF

There are plenty of 20 year old boats out of that factory and the wiring is just fine. I hate slop BTW.

[Lt. Kludge]

Originally Posted by bulk-head

Yah War Whoop...very high attention to detail in that work. Looks good.
Im sure it will give decades of service to its owner.. Difficult to imagine an amateur performing this.

Wire crimps are much easier to duplicate. Repeatability is critical . Crimps are all I see on commercially wired yachts these days . The yacht presently being serviced, pictured, is 15 years old , virtually 100 percent crimped, and her only electrical wiring issues are a few wire insulation breakdowns on the outside, stretched surface, of tight bends. Be careful with your wire bend radius.

Is that done in a wire harness shop? The crimps (Double metal?) look like they were done with the manufacturers die and the wire bends look like they were routed on a fixture, to me anyway. A Pneumatic Double Crimp in a Wire and Harness shop is going to increase reliability over most all hand crimp jobs. Great for repetitive assembly tasks. But not so practical for repairs.

As said elsewhere it takes both a quality Crimp and a quality crimp tool with the manufacturers spec'd die. To yield a quality crimp connection. A cheap hand crimp-er in experienced hands will yield mostly good results. But proper dies and tools take the guesswork out of it.

IMO Double metal crimps are preferred.