Tristar 36' hull

You are right about what it takes to get the boat finished and moved not being factored in. I did lay some of those cards on the table, some people dont like the cards. I even sugested he finish the cabin top and get it in the water before selling it. Someone else could finish and fit it out, he would have a better shot at recouping his money out of it if he really has that much in it. If he cant sell it on ebay I will get in touch with him again, go look at the hull and location , figure out the cost involved moving it and it,s value to me. I also want to know how long this build has been going on. rick

 

Sound like room for offers 15 k or burn? OK burn it but here is my number and I'll give you x amount if you change your mind.

Side note is open burning allowed? The Tri Star is an old design.

 

Open burning is allowed most of the year. The Tri Star is an old design, but for a cruising tri the newer designs cant compete. Searunners, Cross,s and Horstmans have the needed room and payload needed to cruise with some comfort. The Horstman Tri Star plans come with foam core scantlings, so old design really may not apply if they are built with foam, epoxy, kevlar, carbon, and biax , they become almost 3rd generation. Search Tri Star 36 howling wolf, it,s a fine modern cruiser. rick

 

I'm with you there, except for for Marples the cruising tri is a neglected niche. They bridge the gap between cruising cats and the hotter tris and cats without the room. The solid decks give a lot of utility and versatility plus a drier time topsides. They are often more weatherly too with less windage than the cruising cats. Fashions change but a good performing design will work as well now as it did when drawn, often to the surprise of the current crop.

 

I also agree, tris were so popular 30 - 40 yrs ago, now it all cats all the time, i actually prefer cats but not the condomarans that are so popular now, the lighter, performance oriented bridgedeck cats are also a neglected niche. While a lot of us really like the Searunner/Cross/Horstman /Nichols tris of old not too many (Rick being an exception) would actually build one today which is unfortunate. I think part of the reason tris lost ground is that for the most part you are down in a cave like on a mono unless you get pretty big.
Steve.

 

Possible but raised seating can put you at window level. People wanting more room with less effort.... The tris do sail more like a boat and less like a raft though and it is fun to pass the condos.

 

It would be tough to get away from the cave like interior in a Tri star, i have actually sailed on a 35 and while i like them a lot you are way down in there and the windows are waaa..y over there.
Steve.

 

I like the way the Horstman trimarans are organised internally and the centralised accomodation they offer it just feels more homely and private to me than cats with a bridgedeck I can see why Rick is going down this path different strokes for different folks.

 

They are great boats for sure, there was a 36 up here I tried to buy for a while. Like any flush deck boat prisms and hatches can provide more light than you need. What you get with a Tristar is an amazing deck for sailing. Guys like Wharram think small windows help provide a retreat from the sea. We are at the other end with the wide angled view, I love it now but it took some getting used to, especially off watch at speed.

 

I plan on more hatches for light and air, no windows in the front ,or if I change my mind only 3 inchers. In the size range I,m building every thing I,ve read said tri over cat, and there are no modern cruising tri,s that can compete with the old one,s. They just need to be modernised when it comes to material use. rick

 

Rick, i know you are going to use epoxy and stitched fabrics on your 31, did Ed update the laminate schedule for you? I know that the original designs were designed with a foam core and mat/roving/polyester laminate.
Steve.

 

Scantlings have been updated to include biax , it calls for 1708, and mat can be replaced with more biax as there is no need for mat with epoxy other than thickness, though your on your own to an extent .His book on foam construction give,s enough info when you choose to deviate from his laminate schedule. This forum helps you double check when deviating.I,ve cut out about half the weight of the mat, my outside laminate will be kevlar from just above the water line to keel, 17 oz 45/45, 18 oz 0/90, and a 5.7 os s-2 glass for my finish cloth. Tha study plans called for 1/2" foam , plans called for 5/8", I have H-80 and renecell 240 , silvertip epoxy in and out. Rick

 

Great thread! I'd have gone for a tri as well if it was just for personal use. So many advantages.

 

Check out feedback on kevlar water absorption. I've heard of kayak builders complaining about the weight it can pick up if not completely sealed. I've used some as a inside laminate for bows, wing leading edges,wing bunk bottoms etc... where it always would work in tension for impact resistance yet not be in the water ordinarily.

 

The kevlar is only for puncture resistence, I do worry about hand layup outside on the kevlar , inside might be a better way to go . But the kevlar as the first layer should be sealed by all the biax and finish cloth. I have time to think on it some more. rick