Telstar 26 mk2

The trade offs are covered pretty well in post 4. If you use your boat for cruising leaving the amas where they are is a + because they keep the boat from rolling at anchor, one of a cruising multi's benefits. Extending the transom isn't extreme, it could improve lowspeed drag without impacting the resale value. The rule of thumb is to change one thing at a time so you know what is helping or hurting as you tune for performance. Adding a bowsprit with screacher is another step after the genoa. On these older designs the big jib makes a lot of difference. Keep an eye on what the boat was designed for, a family boat with more than mono performance. Get to far past there and the money and work required make another design a better place to start.

 

Sound advice one thing at a time. Being from England can you explain what a screacher is ? What is the best method for a bowsprit thank you karl

 

A screecher, code zero, etc..... Is a light weight sail cut flatter than a asymmetric spinnaker, sort of a free luff genoa, spinnaker substitute set forward of the forestay and used at tighter wind angles. They'll take you upwind in light air and boost your performance offwind though aren't as powerful more downwind like the larger and fuller spinnakers. The forestay on the Nicol is set back from the bow enough so I don't need a sprit but there are many solutions. They usually have a bobstay to the stem and stays to the ama bows. The Farriers have pivoting hardware so the sidestay can be let go and the sprit folded sideways for docking. We actually modified a lightweight full genoa for an inexpensive trial horse and set and retrieve it flying which isn't as bad as it sounds though a line furler is more convenient. A wire or spectra luff is necessary in the sail as there is no stay. You also need tackle to tension the luff.

 

Ok food for thought.enough on trying to gain more speed for now. Having thoughts on replacing rudder assembly as what I have is quite heavey and move considerably whilst under sail. Currently it's a drop down through a box arrangement. I was planning on a kick up arrangement or would I be better keeping to the original type of deign.

 

Come on guys I'm looking to you for help I'm relatively inexperienced in sail boats. I know it's an older design but there must be a whole list of things that may apply generally.

 

Karl, found a picture for you with stern extension http://www.telstarowners.net/bb/viewtopic.php?t=536&p=3705. I had Telstar 50 in the seventies bought in Sandwich/Kent GB as a sailing shell, built a rudder and made it wider by distancers but it never fulfilled my greed for speed though it was light enough, just kissing the water with its floats. Sold it after four years. If you want real speed look for another design.

 

Stern extension

Some more pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ajax_pc/6778735656/in/photostream/

http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/extension,telstar/Interesting

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...te-renovation-modification-project-46520.html

And please remember: Telstar is a cruising trimaran, no racer or cruiser/racer.

 

I owned Telstar #22 which was actually the first production boat. I think that the best we got out of her was 12 knots.

We hit 14 knots on my mates 8m telstar which was about as light as one is going to get.

Sugar scoop is a good idea, but leave the rudder as it is, its pretty good - make a new blade if you must

Raising floats would be a waste of time because the windward one will skim once you get her sailing.

It might be worth knowing that J24 sails fit pretty well. the main is a bit old school, but the j24 jib is actually a genoa and is great. Lots of almost new J24 sails about.

I don't think that you can make much in the way of speed gains on the Telstar, just strip out any weight that you can and rebuild what you can in lighter materials. A lighter rotating mast with Dux rigging would save a lot of weight up top.

I always thought that the Telstar was a great boat and that it left a gap in the market when production stopped - hopefully we can fill it when the F-22 gets into proper production.

Paul [Team VMG]

 

Hi. I've got the chance of a 6hp,4 stroke outboard this one has an extra long shaft. I'm currently running a 9.9 honda 4 stroke long shaft but it suffers in choppy water . Is 6 hp sufficient power for my tri ?

 

It depends on how much wind you want to run against. Getting the prop sized right will make a difference. A outboard for a 15 knot skiff will have lots of prop slip and cavitation trying to push a bigger boat at slower speeds. In calm conditions, no problem, but in a stiff headwind the prop will still spin but you'll slow way down. Still, if your 9.9 is hopping out of the water the 6 will be better, especially if the prop is sized right.

 

Yes get the right prop, but I think that the 6 will be gutless.
Get the shaft of the Honda extended

I just got the engine extended on our 32' tri - now my wife will let me go forward to use the toilet while we are motoring! bliss!

 

We used a 7.5 hp 2 stroke from 1957 on the Nicol (37')for about a year. It actually did all right, we took it deep into BC but the idea was to sail so we didn't power into head winds. The 9.9 Yamaha hi thrust does much better, we really don't need more motor.

I agree the Honda has more kick but think it would be cheaper and easier to put on a lowering bracket rather than extend the shaft. Price it all out first and check prop availability. Honda has some 4 blades that give low end grunt.