K24T versus Buccaneer 24

[bruceb]

caiman, I like! pictures of boats- that is why most of us are here It does look as if you have too much blade in front of the shaft, but of course, there are always other issues- it is a boat In many rudders, the best position for the pivot point is at a forward section of the rudder that is too thin for a strong enough shaft or the blade ends up thicker than will fit in your cassette. I think I would try to borrow a blade or make a very temporary one to experiment with before I spent very much time or money on a "proper" blade. Keep taking pictures! Bruce

[caiman]

Do you have any pics/line drawings of rudders so that I can compare them?Or can you point me to some pics on the forum please?Making a new rudder/adapting my present one would be on the upperlimit of my abilities and so I want to gather as much info as possible before I make the first cut.My initial thoughts are to 'shave' off the leading edge as far back as the front edge of the cassette,any thoughts?Any major mods such as the rudder are going to be left until the Winter.The sailing season is rapidly slipping away so any(limited) spare time will,hopefully, be spent sailing rather than fixing.The pics I took to show the interior aren't very good,I'l get some better ones to try and show the headroom etc.
Thank you for all the input,it is very much appreciated,the only other Tri locally is an old Telstar so there is little 'local' multihull knowlage for me to draw on.Another question,is the distance ahead of the rudder stock critical when mounting a tiller pilot(Autohelm ST2000)?The manufacturers say 18 inches,I am hopeing to mount the pilot inside the cockpit which would make this distance about double that.Do you reckon it will still work satisfactorily?I will be going to try this but any advice is good.I realise that the stroke of the pilot will give a reduced amount of helm available than when mounted the correct distance,but I am hopeing that bacause caiman is so responsive that this will be acceptable.

[bruceb]

Caiman, I just tested my new rudder assembly- transom hung, so it is not quite the same as your problem. I will get some pics up soon. I mounted the pivot point vertical and let the bottom of the blade extend a couple of inches in front of the vertical pivot line (about 5% of the area). Almost all of the bad habits are gone. The helm feels a little "heavy", but it does not ever try to take over. I almost doubled the area so some more effort is to be expected. I haven't tried it yet in fast conditions, so I will report back when I have. Bruce

[caiman]

Thanks for all your input.My latest problem is the dagger board !!I'm not too well up on forum protocols so I don't know if this should be a new thread.Does anyone know a quick cheap method to make a replacement dagger board?Mine has just snapped.I was unable to pick up the broken piece allthough I did sail manage to sail back to it after hearing the 'tearing, scrunching 'noise that told me that something bad had happened.It broke five miles offshore whilst on a broad reach at 12.5 knots.20/20 hindsight tells me that I should have retracted the board as much as possible while on a broad reach.I probably should have reduced sail also!!Sailing back home was a close reach and there was no problem with leeway.The pics are all over 2 Mb and I don't know how to make them smaller.Any help/advice welcome.

[Samnz]

Originally Posted by caiman

Thanks for all your input.My latest problem is the dagger board !!I'm not too well up on forum protocols so I don't know if this should be a new thread.Does anyone know a quick cheap method to make a replacement dagger board?Mine has just snapped.I was unable to pick up the broken piece allthough I did sail manage to sail back to it after hearing the 'tearing, scrunching 'noise that told me that something bad had happened.It broke five miles offshore whilst on a broad reach at 12.5 knots.20/20 hindsight tells me that I should have retracted the board as much as possible while on a broad reach.I probably should have reduced sail also!!Sailing back home was a close reach and there was no problem with leeway.The pics are all over 2 Mb and I don't know how to make them smaller.Any help/advice welcome.

It shouldnt have broken in those conditions! The local Hughs designed Tri also broke its rudder and cetreboard, guess its a design/engineering issue.

It would be worth building a decent board for it, probably needs to have a shorter chord and longer too, im sure a designer can elaborate?

[oldsailor7]

Can't really help unless you tell us how your broken board was made and it's thickness.
Any new board you make will have to fit your CB case --and that is much harder than making a case to fit your board. Too thin and it will rattle and vibrate. Too thick and it will be a pain when it jams.

Remember a board must oppose the sideways pressure of the whole sailplan, which is at its max on a reach. Too thin and it will snap under load. A board should NEVER be made from plywood,on any boat larger than a dinghy.

You should start with a single piece of straight grained Cedar, twice the length of the desired board. Cut it exactly in half. Match the end grains in opposition to each other and glue the two pieces together with Epoxy.

Using the join line as a datum, plane and sand the sides of the board blank to the desired section using a female pattern cut accurately from hardboard, chipboard, or any other sheet material which is convenient. You will only need one pattern for a rectangular board, or three for a tapered board.

When the desired shape is finished, glass the board with three layers of 10oz glasscloth set in epoxy, all laid up in one go and rolled on well with a "Cooky Cutter" roller, to extrude all the microscopic air bubbles. Do one side at a time and while the layup is still wet cover it with non-porus wax paper (stolen from the kitchen drawer), and roll it smooth with a dry paint roller. When the epoxy has cured peel off the wax paper. This will give you a lovely smooth finish ready for light sanding and painting.

Don't forget to leave the back edge of the finished board 3mm (1/8th") thick and NOT rounded, otherwise a sharp F/Glassed edge will not only be fragile but will cut the inside back of your C/B box something horrid.

Hope this helps.

[jonom]

oldsailor,

do you still have a plan available for the bucc 24?

[oldsailor7]

Jonom.
Yes I do, but we are both OT on this thread.

Google "Buccaneer 24 plans for sale"
Go to Page 1. Post 1. And read the details.
If you make 4 more posts on these forums you will be able to PM me.

OS7.

[danskram]

Oldsailor I would like a set of those plans for the Buccaneer 24

[oldsailor7]

Originally Posted by danskram

Oldsailor I would like a set of those plans for the Buccaneer 24

Thanks danskram. Please PM me for information.

Cheers. OP7

[danskram]

Oldsailor, how many pages are included in the plans?
(trying to get 5 posts)

[jonom]

oh my...

::feels terrible for what he started:::

[oldsailor7]

Originally Posted by jonom

oh my...

::feels terrible for what he started:::

Don't feel terrible. Just ask some questions and get those three posts.

[oldsailor7]

Originally Posted by danskram

Oldsailor, how many pages are included in the plans?
(trying to get 5 posts)

Seven if you include the extra sheet for the alternate spade rudder.

[oldsailor7]

I am amazed at the continuing interest in the Buc24 plans.
It is not worth while producing them in less than 5 sets at a time.
I have done just that and have already shipped two of them.
Anyone still interested in a set please PM me.

Otherwise please go to the "Buccaneer 24 plans for sale" thread.

I am trying not to be OT on this thread. See my post# 53 above.

Cheers. OS7