High Performance MPX Foil/Self-righting Trimaran-The Test Model

I'm thoroughly confused. the specs you posted were of 15 feet long, that's not a model that's an actual boat. and the title of the thread is the test model. Its the model that interests us and is the subject of the thread.

 

I think the thread would be more constructive if folks didn't engage in name calling, try to bypass the posting guidelines by using filler characters for curses and in general were off topic.

Your post has been reported to the moderator.

 

Baltic Bandit, I believe the frustration expressed by redeuben is in response to your posts 745-747 and others and echos that of some other members who feel some of your questions are not genuine but instead are only bumping the thread to heckle, as evidenced by the responses to your initial posts which were moved with responses to http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/multihulls/split-off-topic-posts-mpx-thread-48872.html#post662474

Some people feel the thread is too redundant, others feel it's too long, others enjoy following each trial and tribulation as the model is built. It would seem the easiest for those who find it uninteresting is to simply read anything and everything else that does interest you. Or if you're designing or building a boat, please start a thread and show how you're doing it better, faster, or more interesting. And let the forum members who are interested in it follow the progress, or not, as they desire.

 

MPX Test Model-radio box

Whup dee do! The radio box is on the boat! The holes for mounting the rudder servo push rod and sail winch are predrilled. The sides and ends were put up using cyano(acrylate super glue) + baking soda to "tack" them in place. Next will be light carbonation and installation of the servo board, flange and top followed by white paint and the re-installation of the "non-skid" removed to make room for the box. Since it isn't part of the overall boat design and is just a requirement for model testing the box is just a box-ain't pretty- but will keep some expensive radio gear dry when being firehosed.
Adding the radio gear will be a piece of cake since the fitting and set up has already been done.
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UPDATE: the box was carbonated in place and the corners reinforced tonight! All the corners were microsphered just before layup. See last two pictures....

click and expand and click again for best view:

 

Well since Reuben claimed I was repeatedly whining and such I find it hard to believe it only applies to two posts of mine. And since I believe I've contributed positively to the readability of the thread by summarizing the differences between successive large verbose posts using automated tools, I find it somewhat surprising that you are tolerating those sorts of comments by Reuben.

As with the previous disruptive content, I would urge you to remove all of it to a separate thread and warn those making personal attacks

 

Doug - can you explain what "carbonated" means? I've never heard that term used in composite construction before. Am I missing something?

 

OT

Seems to come from "carbonara" , " spaghetti carbonara" --spaghetti charcoal burner's style.
In Europe a popular meal, 'cause of dreaming about "Dolce vita italiano"
Carbonara et una coca cola
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0KrWSg9VqfM

pogo

 

MPX Test Model

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Hi Pogo: "carbonation"-Explained several times early in the thread and self evident. Used throughout the thread. Easily understood by most people. If you don't read the thread you'll miss a lot.

 

Didn't you notice the "OT" in my posting ? :idea:
Have yanks no humour ?
and,
How stupid do you think I am ?

Don' t answer, go
zurück zur Tagesordnung.

pogo

 

So why not just use the language we all use Doug? "Tabbed to the hull with carbon strips"? Why use the less precise description? I have to say that it makes it harder to understand for folks like me.

And it raises the question as to why you didn't just mount it with something like black 5200?

More curious as to why you surface mounted the radio box instead of having it integral to the hull itself. What was the thinking behind that?

 

MPX Test Model-the radio box

The box turned out perfectly! Today I've ground the corners and the inside to prepare for the servo board which is an epoxy glass plate(.031") that sits inside the box. The rudder servo is mounted directly to this piece and there are cut-outs that allow the installation and removal of the sail winch, Guyatt switch and battery.
Once the servo board is installed, the flange will be installed. This will consist of .5" X .5" balsa rectangles glued to the upper inside edge of the box, and on top of them very thin strips(.020" thick) of dragan plate carbon will be glued. Then the weather seal will be added to the dragan plate.
The top of the box will be cut from the same epoxy glass(.031") plate that makes the servo board. The stb aft corner will be drilled for mounting the Guyatt switch which is a pretty neat little device. It is mounted to the top with the actual switch inside a predrilled hole with the switch head adjusted with an alan wrench. Another hole right next to the switch is over an LED "on" light. A neat sticky back cover is provided that waterproofs the switch and light holes. The battery (6.6v LiFE lithium, 2100MAH) will be velcroed in place on the servo board.
The top is retained on the box with special waterproof tape($26!) which will be applied each time the boat is sailed. The head of the sail winch that sticks out-board on the stb side and the pushrod exit on the aft ,port side will be sealed with synthetic PTFE grease.(this "clean" grease(Super Lube) may also be used on the weather stripping to further seal the box)
No carbonation required to finish this installation as best I can tell-next will be on the mast extention.
--pictures later maybe.....

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Didn't get as far as I wanted but got the top and servo board(+reinforcement) built but not finished:
click--

 

Why not seal the top more cheaply and securely? put 4 rubber grommeted (bedded in 5200) allen head machine screws vertically at each corner that screw into blind nuts in the hull.

The figure out how many screw turns necessary from initial contact to all the way cinched down.

Finally undo the whole thing put a bead of black 5200 around the lip of the box, then put a layer of saran wrap on it. Add a second bead of 5200 around the edge of the cover.

now screw the whole thing together and let it sit over night. When the 5200 is hard, use an exacto blade to trim off the outer edges.

Open the screws and trim the inner edges. you now have a perfect double gasket seal that won't leak and won't cost what that tape does and will look a lot more finished than a bunch of tape holding a box together.

Still wondering why you didn't just recess the whole thing into the deck.

 

MPX Test Model- The Rig

Coming up on the last big job-the rig:
1) extend the mast about 10". The extension will be added to the lower end of the mast allowing the wing section to extend to the top. Reinforce for the noggle side panels-see post 698.
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2) cut and set up the gaff which will be used instead of the diagonal batten initially. Gives superior control of a big square head in light air by allowing a functional upper outhaul.
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3) Install the combination noggle/gooseneck/ vang mount. At this point I'm going with the vang instead of the vageller but that could change.
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4) make and rig the main boom and install to noggle/ gooseneck.
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5) setup outside and rig shrouds, Code Zero and jib with adjustable rake. Forestay is integral to both foresails. There will be a separate forestay for reefing.
---a. add bowsprit removably
---b. make Code Zero boom and jib boom
---c. attach long maststep that allows adjustment of mast heel fore and aft and allows rotation of wing mast.
6) Pictures of rig on boat(this coming week?)
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7) Testing!

 

Doug why not use standard sailing terms? The vang on a Star boat is still called a vang even though its on a circular track, And a traveler is defined by having the mainsheet controls run on it. So the only way something is a 'vangeler' is if you somehow combine both vang and mainsheet. And that would truly be an innovation


Now I'm curious as to why you are raising sail off the deck. Given the speed expectations you have set for this boat and what was seen at the C-Class champs, one would think that you'd be going hard core for end-plate effect on the sail (another reason to bed the control box flush with the hull I would think.

 

MPX Test Model-the radio box

Heres a shot of the test fit with the sail winch on the front end just to stb of the rudder servo and the battery in center. The cutout on the far right of the picture is for
the Guyatt switch which is attached to the top. All fits perfectly.....
click---