CNC Plans not Included

Moving Around on Deck in very rough seas

Just happened across this video that documents a very rough storm at sea and the rescue of the crew. At minute 12:00 take notice of there moment on the deck, and then imagine how you provide some proper hand holes and lifelines for such...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkIuBUVJHQk

BTW, she is exhibiting VERY good balance in that situation. As we get a little older we lose some of that ability....ha...ha

 

I'm glad to see they got their boat back!! Goes to show how seaworthy cats can be.

My main concern is the lack of protection for storms even one tenth as severe. I'm much more likely to be caught in those ... But I agree, handholds, life lines or some system needs to be thought out.

I notice their transom didn't have steps either. I love stepped transoms, they are practical and look good.

My other concern is the really large Bimini, it's like a huge handhold for the wind. I found another way to handle the solar panels so am thinking that a smaller fully protected helm, center console, with extendable soft bimini's, for shade, might be more practical and could still look good.

The other possibility I have been thinking about is to build the Salon roof the way it's designed, just don't enclose it, might be more streamlined that way.

 

Continuing to browse all the designs out there... Just not happy with the Top.

I decided to try using straighter lines and more vertical hulls. This is a 65 but could be squeezed to 60 without issue I think.

The chine tapers to nothing past the bridgedeck, the hulls are more vertical and straighter now but they still look pretty lean to me.

I drew the top having a walkway down the middle with pv glass on either side. That is what would look good, I don't know if it's practical, I sent an email to one company to inquire about weight. If not, that is cool, I have another idea where to locate pv's and it would be easy.

Here are some pics

 

LOL

I couldn't leave it alone but now I think I am as close as I can get before turning it over to an architect and I am happy with it.

LOA is 60' and I thinned her out good.
Cockpit is one level 17 feet wide by about 23 feet long … There is about 3.5 feet of deck, beyond aft cabin so you can get to the down steps without a step in between.

Inside is also one level.

Cockpit is semi-sheltered from front by a large main beam and from sides by a - watch the sunset - sitting area ... Base of seats is angled for less windage and seat backs fold down. This is cool and also makes the top a little less gangly.

those chines in the hull sill support the floor and all the cabinetry etc… That means all that stuff gets prefabbed and glued into place, nothing should need to rest on the floor. I built my kitchen cabinets at home the same way, works great and you save a lot of weight and material because you don't use full cabinet sides, just a framework where drawer slides affix to.
-----------
The hardtop is huge but I need that room for lots of solar panels and shade. Look at the hulls, they look like daggers! It's as lean as I can go without feeling claustrophobic.
-------------
The bath is reduced in size. I moved the toilet to back room by itself, the shower fits better with the sink. I like this layout much better.
-------------
Bridgedeck bunks are queen size and have lots of headroom. They have lots of drawer space too. I didn't put any hanging closets, makes me claustrophobic. I will leave a little space for a chair (desk) or not.
-------------
The galley is tight but you still have 30" of floor space, that barely passes. The cove under bridge deck can be a deep pantry.
------------------
The aft bunks are a bit high, need one step but they are fully accessible from the side and have a ton of storage under. The cove can be a book case/entertainment center or whatever. I left plenty of room in front of the bed to be able to pull drawers out. Bed clear spans and drawers hang from bed frame like everything else, nothing touches the floor.
-----
View from Aft - Don't really know how to draw all the lines but I don't mind the way the hard top came out and I really like the incorporation of a sitting area on the sides. Rails on the roof will make good handhold when seas are rough.

Those extra windows will give lots of light to aft cabin. I didn't draw the step up from deck to top of hull but maybe a small one is needed.

Helm can go anywhere, I personally am ok with hydraulic… I have it up front because it's the most protected area and if I am sailing in cool waters, which will happen every now and then, that might be the warmest spot.

I would be happy with this catamaran and it would be an easy build. In the different sections I have the colored lines to depict top and bottom molds. I made sure that their is plenty of taper on both and only one plug marking for each side is all that is needed.

Here are the pics

 

The volume distribution is very biased aft. The likely resulting hull shape once all the weights have been assessed will probably give you more volume up forward than you currently show.

Eager too see where a yacht designer will go from here...

 

Yeah, but I read Grainger likes that so I pushed in that direction. I think with 60' of hull to play with it might be possible. Trying to get a deposit together so I can engage him.

Here is a view from below, 4.5 feet at widest part (middle of aft cabin) and then tapers a bit to transom. I bet he also says it needs more buoyancy forward but I bet it's not much. Looks fast to me ))

EDIT: I didn't draw it but I envision the outboard bracket in the forward part of aft cabin. There is room there to take a small scallop out of the inboard hulls and far enough forward that shouldn't be a problem with motor bobbing in and out of the water.

 

Sailboats need more buoyancy forward due to the lift from the sail plan acting from a point well above deck level. As you accelerate a sailboat up in stronger winds, you can really see the bows pressed down into the water. The resulting properly designed hull shape will carry significantly more buoyancy up in the forward cabins- which is good because you will then have a lot more room inside than you think you have

Also consider the max beam - on a 60ft boat you'll need to consider marina berthing. 8.5m max is probably the limit or you will really struggle to find a berth I'm a lot of places. I know you don't intend to be in marinas often, but reality is you often need to go into them for various reasons along your trips...

 

My last boat (Crowther 226A) had a buoyancy distribution toward the rear. It went bow down with loading and sailing forces.

 

Okay so two votes for fatter waterlines, and me too actually so I will modify that.

And around 28.5 beam or even less if possible, that is an easy draw.

I have a question about windage. In power boats, the worry is about wind from the front.

On a sail boat, wind from the side would seem to help as the hull is part of the sail, no??

So then the problem I envision would be wind hitting the bow keeping you from pointing into the wind, is that correct?

If that is the case, then it would seem to be a good thing to keep the rear of the boat high and not taper it down. Wind would hit that more than the bow and pivot the boat around the dagger so it points easier into the wind, is that correct?

If so then I shouldn't be tapering the back of the boat down.

 

Look at my avatar pic. Its small but even then you can notice how its bow down. I think it will be easier to keep it trim with gear loading when its has a more balanced buoyancy distribution too.

 

Can't really see it that well. Here is the new waterline, do you think that is enough or should it be evened out more.

 

I can squeeze the waterline aft back to 54
EDIT: Actually hold off on commenting for a second, I just tried making the waterline perfectly straight and I am just going to flare top so it doesn't look so straight. Will post in a bit

 

Okay I got it, just needed to keep the waterline consistent for longer. Very little change to aft cabin but nice gains in bridgedeck cabin and bath and cabinets work better in galley. This is now a 28.5 foot beam boat.

Both chines are now 1.5 inches and constant, so pretty simple lines for any type of construction.

The bows down thing got me thinking. Even airplanes have a trim adjustment for flaps. Has anyone ever thought of using their strategically positioned fresh water holding tanks to trim a boat. Pump water forward or aft as needed or even across the boat if you're flying the hull.

 

That's a big boat...

Have you worked out the volume your waterline displaces? Looks pretty huge to my eye- she will probably float considerably higher than you've drawn if its built light with efficient engineering and not too heavy fit out...

 

most panels are so flat and so long, that getting them fair and strong enough is going to be a real challenge.
On thing jorgepease, your drwgs show the inner surface or outer?