CNC Plans not Included

I have less than 24 inches floor width in my boat. When walking through the bulkheads it's quite tight, almost have to turn sideways to fit though. It's nice to have space but it doesn't come free. The surface areas of all panels and bulkheads increase exponentially with length - even though it wouldn't seem that way. The bulkheads are larger in diameter and there is more of them. Area is proportional to radius squared.... and beyond that, you enevitably use the space for larger bench spaces , bigger galley etc - you said so yourself- so everything gets bigger. If it didnt- why build it so big in the first place!

The rig, ropes, sails, deck hardware like pulleys, blocks, clutches and winches etc, all this brand new will cost more than a used 40ft cruising cat - over $200k.

Have a look on Maui pro sailing and look at the prices of the deck hardware. For a large rig, you'll need the highest load rated equipment they have- each powered winch will cost you over $10k. This stuff is damn pricey Jorge, if you haven't done much sailing it might all come as a surprise....

 

Yeah I did check those winches out, very surprising the cost!! Wonder why, must be very few of them sold.

I think 75 foot is a bit big for me too, I'm not going to rule it out yet but I am going to draw one at 60' with symmetrical hulls because I would be happy with 36" floor space between cabinets and turning the bed sideways.

This is the specs for the Gunboat 78, it looks very close to what I drew http://www.gunboat.com/series/previous-models/gunboat-78/

Interesting that this is the largest you can go for CE Class A, after that it's a whole new set of requirements including crew etc...

 

I started from scratch again and I like this iteration the best! I haven't checked elevation yet, I will try and get to that tonight.

This is a 60 footer with a 4 foot 3 inch waterline aft. 13.85 ratio, not bad, I am surprised. I made the keel a bit less rounded so the flare would look smoother going up. I don't think I will increase draft though, it was minimal.

I didn't lose much on interior space with the new shape and I kept the floor low. Yes the cabinets are not full size on the bottom but I have yet to use the very back of a base cabinet at home and I much prefer the floor space between cabinets. Plus tons of cabinets and counter space!

The guest bedroom is very cool. A full size single bed on each side and you will be able to slide them together for a King Size if you have a couple as guests. Plenty of dresser space, huge pantry and nice size closets forward.

The bridge deck will run from the CL back to the first step, about 24 foot I think.

 

I like the last layout I posted but the hull shape is kind of ugly. This new shape is more like the SIG. It has the inboard flare but we don't create it in the hull mold, we create it in the bridgedeck mold.

The way I think it would work is you build one symmetrical hull plug and mark the areas on each side where it tapers out to the bridgedeck. When pulling the mold don't glass those areas. So then you match it up to the bridgedeck mold.

I'm getting bleary eyed thinking about this, got to drive to keys tomorrow, sold the flats boat I built, gonna miss that thing but can't bring it with me )).

 

why not incorporate the bed into the main beam "connection to hull area" like this;

*photo spirited 480 interior, bed is queen for size reference... you have his and hers access from both sides and a set of drawers or similar underneath.

 

The bunk I showed in previous post was in the aft cabin. It might be possible to put one on the bridgedeck but then you might have to raise the hull. Also they have one foot less clearance under the bridgedeck.

Maybe with a coachroof, either curved like this or level and angle down where it intersects hull.

 

Epoxy/Wood Construction, Trawler & Dix Catamaran

You really should keep an open mind about the possibility of wood/epoxy construction. it eliminates the need for molds (time and expensive).

This method was brought back to my attention by a gentleman who had a recent trawler of his custom built, and has made good suggestions that I reconsider (or as an alternative consider) this type of construction for the hull (and likely the deck) of this Pilgrim trawler design I am working on redeigning.

Here are a few of his posting and photos related...

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=517034&postcount=421

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=517796&postcount=427

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=518028&postcount=429

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I have also mention previously the Dudley Dix cats, and their construction,....things to consider if you want to keep your cost of building in line.
http://www.dixdesign.com/dh550%20build12.htm

http://www.dixdesign.com/dh550%20build.htm

 

Might reduce the costs of the mega yacht shell down to 1M from 2M

 

I love wood boats but as mentioned before I am not going to buck the trend to foam which is a very small part of the cost anyway.

It's the darn hardware that is raining on my parade. Groper said $200K for block and tackle, winches etc... I don't see how that number is going to change much with a smaller boat? ... We might have to tear apart a winch and see why it costs as much as my outboard motor!!!

As for the stitch and glue method, whether you use wood or foam, that is a dirty word to me lol ))). I will never consider it again. Took me 1.5 years to build a little skiff (after work and wknds) and I could have done it in probably 2 months using a direct to female mold ... even less than a month now that I know what I am doing. But the main reason for the mold is I hope to be building more than one boat.

Also- symmetrical hulls - simplifies and greatly reduces the costs. I am really excited about that, it will simplify work across the board.

The boat has been reduced to a non-oppulent 60' has a single level interior and exterior (except for foredeck) and I think I resolved (at least for me) the design of the top. I even have what I think is a cool idea to reduce windage and I haven't seen it implemented before.

I will post the new drawings tomorrow.

 

This is the 60' version with bridgedeck bunks. I left out the angled join where bridgedeck meets hull, like the SIG45, to avoid the ugly taper on the forward hulls. I think there are enough beams to compensate for any strength loss but that is not for me to say, I'm just putting what I like and what is easier to build.

The roof is supported by columns but it looks like center console arch - For Aesthetics - Smaller columns have to be designed in on the ends. I was thinking the arches could pivot as a foil to avoid any wind resistance if needed.

Most the other parameters have been kept and the hull is slender and sleek.

 

Im not convinced about the tender under deck idea - but the rest of it is getting better.

By putting the tender under there not only are there pracitcal usability /safety considerations, but also your going to loose space somewhere on the deck for accessing the tender. You need to be able to launch and retrieve it single handed in rough weather or youll end up in trouble one day...

You can see how you can use the space where the hull coneects to the beams or raised deck in your drawings, and how this space opens up useability in the hulls. Traditionally, these spaces inboard of the hulls end up being cockpit seats or similar of the exterior / outside deck areas. The length of these spaces can be localised to the front and rear beams, or it could go the entire length of the bridegdeck - choice is yours. But the assymetric part of it should be flat panel build for simplicity so that you can keep the rest of hull symetrical if you go the molded build route.

Personally, im still not convinced on the full mold route either, i think id still prefer the infused flat panel method for everything...

 

I agree

I posted earlier but wanted to take a closer look. Yeah I know you like that method but I plan on building more than one. I redid the drawing with a chine and reduced the height of the beams aft of the main beam so that I could lower Bimini. It also puts the hull roof at about perfect sitting height ... I wonder how high that chine has to be to not cause drag, the lower the better because it allows less warp on sides.

This last design leans out the boat from a vertical perspective but allows for a queen size bed at normal height in the aft cabin. We get around 6'-6" headroom throughout after I added a tiny bit of camber to hull roofs. We get about 43" of headroom not counting mattress so say 36 inches of headroom in bridgedeck bunks and one meter of bridgedeck clearance which is better than a lot of the other cats. This can be played with a bit more but in 3D, too tough the way I am doing it.

I didn't realize they sold the guts so you could make your own custom size fridge and freezers!! Ever hear of these guys - Technautics Cool Blue? They are air cooled and use very little juice!

 

Looks quite sleek rendered - I will stop here for now

 

http://www.luxworldwide.com/magazine/transportation/blackcat-catamaran-concept/