Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Interesting, I meant to say center of lateral resistance but you figured it out. I may have misread a earlier post that referred to bucc daggers as angled forward. And you have changed the CE with the big roach and longer boom...it does look like the rudder is more important. On our Vagabond MK2 having the mast vertical almost adds lee helm but raking it back adds just a bit of weather helm which neutrals as the amas bury, what you would expect. The rudder shaft is vertical.

 

trunk attachment

HH, the trunk is glued and either/both nailed and screwed to the bottom panel and stringers. I will find out when I replace mine My boat doesn't have any glass on the bottom so it is just wood down there. In yours, I would expect some freeze damage. On my boat, I pour some antifreeze in the bilges every winter while it is out of the water- it prevents damage, kills rot and doesn't seem to hurt anything else. Even a 1/4 inch of water can cause a lot of damage in a boat bottom. I would really check around the forward part of your trunk. Wood has the advantage that once it opens up a little, the trapped water drains out, but glass just holds it until something big cracks B

 

clarification

The bottom of the stock Buc dagger board is aft of the top, (angled aft?) and the new a-boards in my floats will be angled forward, but only about a degree and almost inline with the main hull dagger CLR. This is a test I will add that similar sized monos I have messed with are a lot more sensitive to mast rake. Most smaller race boats, monos and multis, load their rudders with aft mast rake for best windward performance, but it also decreases the rudder stall margin and demands more attention to sail trim and heel angle. OK with lots of crew and high skill levels, but maybe not such a good idea on cruising multis that need be more forgiving. I used to set my customer's boats with just a little weather helm and they seemed to be happy or never knew the difference. B

 

Glycol - Chemotherapy for Rot

Good thing Bruce,

It made me remember Dave Carnell's (RIP) Chemotherapy for Rot. Also here as the first link might go offline due to his decease.

Angel

 

dagger trunk

All, excellent discussion as always. I don't think there is any way to avoid replacing the trunk on my boat. I'll attempt to replace with a vertical board. I built a long dagger (NACA 0010) based on some of the earlier conversations and the trunk construction looks quite reasonable. I'll save cutting four more holes until I hear the reports from Bruce's adventure. If I can find the time and energy to grind fiberglass in the summer, I might actually get my first sail this year! Thanks for the comments. Carl

I'll try to keep people posted on any progress.

 

bog it

Clean out the bilge, make a tape dam around the trunk and pour in some epoxy bog, and go sailing- it just might work Just think of it as a big fillet. You can always improve it this winter and you are only out a a half gallon of epoxy- a lot better than grinding in the summer, and not sailing for another season. B

 

He might get the foam core pretty wet.....

 

pics of the offending trunk

Attached are a few pictures of the dagger trunk interior and exterior. I did do minor fill and glass repair on the visible damage and open seams. Obviously I missed the larger problem.

Additonal pics are of the ama assembly using a boat stand on rollers (quite effective). Assembly of everything but raising the mast took about 1 hour with four people. Finally a picture of the illfated trip down the launch ramp.

 

! see the fibreglass version has extended the cabin to the bow, is the cockpit standard ?
RR

 

nice boat, good pics

That is a very nice looking Buc, and I feel sure you can fix the leak. Two questions. Does the top of the trunk have a brace, and can you access the front of the trunk? I don't understand what the filler is in the front of the trunk, but something doesn't look right there. B

 

fiberglass (foam cored) bucc

RR - as far as I know the cockpit is standard. Comfortable seating for two, a squeeze with four. The extension of the cabin is nothing more that a flare above the center hull. I can only guess the idea was to make access forward safer.

Bruce - The trunk is not supported beyond the cabin floor approximately six inches above the bildge. The floor can probably be removed with little difficulty as it is lightly glassed in. This will not expose the 'empty' pocket just forward of the angled dagger case. Although, I might be wrong on the last point. I'll get the grinder out this weekend and have a look. I like the idea of a temp fix to get out this season.

 

Some epoxy and glass on the inside of the slot from the outer skin up a few inches would probably help. With an core boat water can migrate under the inside skin if there is any separation and come out somewhere else. Use a grinder to bevel the edges before you start, those small cracks in the laminate are letting water through. You can reverse test before launching by duct taping/sealing the trunk opening in the hull after you've finished and filling the trunk with water. If it leaks into the cabin your not ready for the ramp!

 

I'd suggest a couple of simple braces from near (or at) the after end of your case at the top, across to hull sides (can be small wooden struts, but just make sure you have sturdy attachment points, spread, fan the carbon) - if the board loads are flexing the case, and there are high loads in that area, (and you have no supports) there will be cracks at the base exit. You could later grind that area away and then re-cove with glue and carbon.

 

Or have the boat level, put water in the hull and see if it drains out & where.

Good luck!
Angel

 

pics

Thanks for the pics. I've been wanting to start a buc when my current project is done and the pics help quite a bit for someone that has never built a boat before. I had something completly different pictured.

excuse the typing, tryng a new batch of homemade Brown Ale, It's pretty good!