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  #31  
Old 08-01-2009, 06:17 PM
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oldsailor7 oldsailor7 is offline
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Bruce.
That looks like one hell of a powerful daggerboard.
Does it interfere with the boom when it is fully up ??
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  #32  
Old 08-01-2009, 08:59 PM
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Bruce, in adding a station to the floats; would you add it in the middle and let the length run out both ends or position the whole float more forward? And exactly how would you add to the stern? I'm not sure if I'll do this but I'm now open to suggestion. I think you are right about the construction changes being easy, A person could add 2-3 inches at each frame and adjust the lines of the side accordingly. I'd like to hear your input.
Mike
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  #33  
Old 08-02-2009, 12:34 AM
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Mike.
If I was adding two feet forward to the floats I would simply spread the frames six inches further apart, forward of the fwd crossbeam.
I would also add a second stringer extending 2ft past Frame 4 to take care of the extra squeezing forces on the sides of the bow. I would also extend the gunnel re-inforcement one foot fore and aft of the crossbeam attachment area, to take the extra compression from the up-force on the longer bows.

Just my HO. Cheers. OP7.
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  #34  
Old 08-02-2009, 01:22 AM
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Manie B Manie B is offline
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i dont want to buy plans, its just a very cool boat and i enjoy reading about it

it is one of those tri's that "talks" to me and more of them should be built

anyway guys keep up the good work cheers

if you got more details than this please post links
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Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum-buccaneer.jpg  
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  #35  
Old 08-02-2009, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsailor7 View Post
Mike.
If I was adding two feet forward to the floats I would simply spread the frames six inches further apart, forward of the fwd crossbeam.
I would also add a second stringer extending 2ft past Frame 4 to take care of the extra squeezing forces on the sides of the bow. I would also extend the gunnel re-inforcement one foot fore and aft of the crossbeam attachment area, to take the extra compression from the up-force on the longer bows.
Good food for thought OS.
Thanks again
Mike
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  #36  
Old 08-02-2009, 12:34 PM
bruceb bruceb is offline
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long floats

I like OS7's method for extending the floats and I think it puts the volume where it would be most effective. Also very easy- we already have the plans The transom extension would require using some battens to find the proper bulkhead profiles but still pretty easy. I would suspend the transom about 2' further back and then fair the bottom and sides to it starting from about 3 bulkheads forward. The hull has a very definite turn up about there. Yes, OS7, my board does have to stay down about a foot (below the hull) to clear the bottom of the main. It seems worth it for performance. I seem to be 1-2 tenths of a knot faster on most points and really lift to weather with out pinching. I think the boat is faster because it is not making hardly any lee way? The lift to drag ratio must be a lot better. I am still finding the best positions for it; it can swing fore and aft as well as be partly raised. Right now, I keep it down and forward up wind and raise it to the knuckle and cant it aft reaching and running. It tapers both ways below the knuckle so the drag drops quickly as it is raised- you can feel it. I am re-building my old board for cruising- shorter is less effort and the long board draws about 6' down, very good for finding the bottom Bruce
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  #37  
Old 08-02-2009, 05:30 PM
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[quote] "and the long board draws about 6' down, very good for finding the bottom Bruce." [quote].

LOL Bruce.
You would never get away with that in Toronto harbour---where the bottom is still littered with concrete blocks left over from the building of the outer harbour.

Yes. The improvement in the L/D ratio is very important. I am sure most sailors don't think about the tremendous increase in drag when the whole underbody of the hulll is dragged sideways, paticularly in light conditions.
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  #38  
Old 08-02-2009, 06:58 PM
bruceb bruceb is offline
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hard bottoms

I bet finding a piece of concrete can ruin your whole day Our lake is mostly 30'-80' deep- but there are reefs. I think I know where most of them are I considered building the board out of foam/carbon/glass to be sort of break away but the price of the carbon fiber was high and I am used to wood, epoxy and glass. I didn't trust my building/designing skills to make it strong enough but expendable. It would have been lighter by probably 8-10lbs and a lot more expensive- particularly if it broke. I did try to leave some crushable foam areas in mine. I agree on the drag, a sort of flat bottom monohull can get by with some side slip, but a tri's hulls don't like to go sideways at all. I built my board foil shaped all the way to the top so I could experiment with jibing it about 2 degrees. I have it shimmed on center right now- one thing at a time. Bruce
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  #39  
Old 08-02-2009, 09:00 PM
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Bruce said :- "It would have been lighter by probably 8-10lbs"

Bruce--I don't think the weight of a board matters too much (unless it's made of lead---Ugh!!).
No matter how you make it in wood/epoxy, it is going to be lighter than the water it displaces.

In the case of your big board ---when you have it fully up, thats another matter.
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  #40  
Old 08-02-2009, 10:00 PM
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For those of you who may be interested, there is a very intense exchange of views regarding 22 to 30 ft multihulls in the Multihulls section of the Sailing Anarchy forums. Just click on Google. Or here:-http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=93021
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  #41  
Old 08-03-2009, 02:53 AM
Samnz Samnz is offline
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Hey Its great to see new boats being built in this great design!

My boat is for sale.

Not sure how much it would cost to get it to the USA but would be a great buy for someone who doesnt have the time to build one.

http://www.multihull.org.nz/buy-and-...-sale-1016.htm

I think it works out at US$12500

I am building a new bigger Tri as the Girlfriend wants space for a family down the line for cruising. Will be very hard to beat the Bucc 24 iv owned for 7 years for value for money fun racing and cruising with 2 people!
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  #42  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:19 AM
redreuben redreuben is offline
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"Will be very hard to beat the Bucc 24 iv owned for 7 years"

Guess you'll be building a Bucc 28 then? Or will you go to 33?
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  #43  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:30 PM
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Ok guys, how bout this; I don't want to lengthen the boat, but you say that it needs more bearing aft. How about starting at the #5 frame widening the boat to be about 4 inches wider at the transom by essentially cutting the frame patterns in half vertically and adding progressively wider sections in the middle to end up at the transom with a 4 inch flat (or slightly convex) bottom? The chine could be lowered slightly to straighten the run out. The floats could be lengthened up front, problem solved.
Comments? criticisms? condemnations? belly laughs?
Mike
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  #44  
Old 08-03-2009, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redreuben View Post
"Will be very hard to beat the Bucc 24 iv owned for 7 years"

Guess you'll be building a Bucc 28 then? Or will you go to 33?
no the main hull and beams are my own design, and the floats are tortured ply from a local designer. Will cost many times the price of my Bucc to complete.

The Bucc 24 is a brilliant boat and you cant beat it for value for money.
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  #45  
Old 08-03-2009, 06:08 PM
bruceb bruceb is offline
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fat transom

Mike, I think you would get about half of the needed lift aft. Maybe better , but it does not address the steep departure angle of the bottom. It will still pull a large wave up at around 6-8kts and probably be slower in light conditions. I think I would leave it stock before I did that, you just have to work at keeping the weight out of the back of the boat. OS7, my board does float- I have to tie it down, but like the new racing bathing suits, if it floats higher, it is going to be faster Maybe we should build our boats out of that new? poly-what?? fabric that they use. I have been working on my own personal flotation with pizza and beer- I float higher every year Bruce
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