Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

I'm still debating on the best place for my jib tracks. On top of the cabin would give me a narrower angle, but the plans call for the side of the cabin which would allow a deeper forsail. BTW my cabin is MK1 width.

 

sheeting angle

Talk to a sail maker! Some things on the plans do not relate to modern boats, and the foils and sails as designed are obsolete. You can do far better.
I had mounted short tracks where ever needed on my 24, and they work great. I just finished mounting a set of tracks for a 100% blade on my 33, and the sail and the track angle (about 8 1/2 degrees) work very well- the boat points high and goes fast. The old tracks along the cabin top edge are just extra places to leak.
B

 

I have a friend with a tremolo. In fact it's the one in the small trimarans book. He only has blocks on his cross arms about even with the mast and no tracks at all. He says it works for him. He uses 2 to 1 sheets. Is a track that important? Note: I would like to race the boat.

 

decision time

Fred, you have answered your own question. If you are going to race, and expect to do well, you have to have equipment at least about equal to the boats you are racing with. Most all modern boats, multi's or mono's, are set up to go up wind pretty well. The sport boats have good sails, sheeting angles and foils. If you have any expectations of just finishing in sight of them, your boat will have to be set up similarly to them. Basic physics.
Many "class" boats, and plenty of others are designed to use jibs that sheet to a particular point, and their sails are cut to fit. Boats like the Trem, Hobie 16s, most sport boats and many "beach cat" style designs work fine with that sort of set up, but they are limited to one size of head sail. The Buc's have smaller rigs and need more choices.
Your call.
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Sheeting angles

I agree with Bruce if you want to race meaningfully then you have to be competitive or prepared to laugh at your failures. If you have chosen your sailmaker and I would choose one with good multihull experience bring them onboard now to optimise your positions now so you don't have to compromise your decisions later.

 

A little progress this weekend.

 

Since your cabin is Mk 1 width, it is exactly the same as my very successful B24
I placed my jib tracks bolted to the side walkway, flush with the side of the cabin and a with a long slide. The sheets are thus directly in line with the sheet winches mounted on the top of the cockpit sides. This is also easier for single handing.
Bucc 24s with the Mk 2 cabin width, can be sheeted straight to a winch on the cabin top, so the cabin structure has to be pretty well constructed, to take the strain of a big foresail or asymmetric.

 

Is anyone else out there in the process of building now? I'd love to share ideas. It seems like if I'm not out there working on it, then I'm thinking about working on it.

 

What happened to Igenova ?

 

RR.
Feedback results are very disappointing.
I shipped 52 sets of B24 plans over the years, but have had no news of ANY of them finishing their boats, or sailing them.

 

Well, I'm definitely gonna have a christening party in the spring and you're invited, old sailor!

 

new builds

Fred, that is a nice and tight looking build, and , it is really good progress.
OS, there may only be a couple of new ones, but your plans have helped keep several old ones going into the future. I am sure I wouldn't have my 33 if I hadn't had the 24 first, so that is one more success.
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Is it important to have the block under the mast step horizontal, or will it work if it is at the slight slope of the roof? I can't really see why it would make a difference.

 

flat

Fred, the base of the mast needs to match the base block fairly closely or the mast will have bend induced and/or a very high point loading until it wears/crushes to match. If you shave the bottom of the mast to match the angle, IMO it would be fine at the size and loading of a Buc 24. You could also taper the top of the block so the top surface mounting area is level. All production boats I have seen have level mounting surfaces for their mast steps. Much larger masts are stepped on a ball or pivot bar to allow mast bend or fore and aft adjustment or they are mounted flat.
My 24 has a rotating mast so it is stepped on a very well attached ball/base plate.
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I don't think my mast sets on the base. It has a large thru-bolt that goes thru the bracket and thru the mast. So I didn't think it was necessary. But, I'll mock fit the bracket to the mast and if it looks like the mast bottoms out on the bracket, then I can see the importance of matching it to the mast.