Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Polycore prices

What are their prices like compared to some of the foams? I will take a look at the site when I have a chance.
My only experience with honeycomb was a "close" encounter with a C&C 35. The 35's core did not stand up very well to the Buc's 1/4" fir ply and is quite expensive to repair. Foam seems more forgiving to minor impact damage. My airex cored 33 has taken quite a few hits over its life, and the damage stayed very local and is easy to repair.
B

 

hull impacts

I thought you would find this interesting, what kurt hughes posted on his blog a while back.
http://multihullblog.com/2014/07/designing-for-impact-the-first-one/#comments
I hope I got that right. I am still learning how to post things here.
nelson

 

My buc will have to take a back seat for a while. We had the early arrival yesterday of my newest little crew member! His name is Gary and he is doing very well as is mum.

Cheers,

Robert

 

Named for Gary B of course...!!!!!!

 

Congratulations rcracing2.
nelson

 

axson resins?

I have available locally Axson epoxy and i was wondering if anyone had experience, good or bad. I am being steered towards AL2108 resin.

 

epoxy

Fred, Axson is new to the US market, but are one of the large European suppliers. If you have access to a full line of products and some basic tech support, almost any system will work. From my reading of their material guide, the #2015 seems to be the most suited to home wood boat construction, but I may be missing something. If you can get a good price from Axson, go for it, but if not, any of the usual suspects are probably a better choice as they are used to boat builder questions and are used to dealing in the smaller quantities we use. Of course, you can use anyone's fillers and mix and match as necessary.
Good luck, Bruce

 

End of season

I pulled the 24 out a couple of weeks ago and yesterday I covered it for the winter. I have spent too much time messing with the 33 and didn't get much sailing in this year. The 24 and I both got a year older with out much to show for it- so next season, one or the other boat goes in the water in March.!! I have gotten the 24 about sorted out, so when I do race, it is quite competitive, but to race next season, I would have to get one or two new jibs.
I will post some updates on the 33 soon, it is finally coming together and I think will be well worth my effort.
B

 

It'll be nice when you get that 33 all done though! The more I think about it it's the perfect size boat for the real world. Big enough but trailer able. In a perfect world that'd be my end game, big enough for going out for a week or so but haul it out when done. Here in the Bay Area the slip fees just couldn't be justified with the wife enough! Haha which is it'll be nice to hone procedure and material on the 24 for a bigger boat someday.


Barry

 

Ring bulkhead for a buc 24

On the thread alternative to marvelous buccaneer24 I proposed a ring bulkhead in place of the designed bulkhead which supports, I believe the mast, the forward aluminum tube beams and the dagger board trunk. I thought this type of bulkhead would give better access to the forward part of the boat and still keep the design simple.

I Think your right bruceb. When I look at photos of buc24's it is pretty tight in that area. The dagger board trunk would have to be completely elimimated or offset quite a bit in order to make use of the extra space to pass through to the bow.
And no I don't have plans for the buc24, only a lot of photos.
nelson

 

It's not just the dagger case Nelson. The bulkhead at frame 4 carries almost all of the major structural forces of the boat, which is how Lockie designed it. It has those heavy wood supports to the tube boxes.
The Buc's 28 and 33 have pivoting centreboards which can be "Hidden" in the front of the cabin seat, leaving room for a passage in the bulkhead. But as Bruce says, there is no room for that in the B24. There is room in fact for a chemical toilet under the head of the front berth, which is accessed through the front hatch.
On my Buc 24 we cut an 18" (450mm) hole in the deck, inside of the front windows, to give "Headroom" when using the "Throne". Worked well for us, and is better than having the toilet under the companionway steps where the is no privacy.

 

Scale of Buc 24

Nelson, OS is correct, everything comes together at the forward beam bulkhead- quite a full area.
To give an idea of scale, the top of the 24's main hull, at its widest point midship is about 36", and the waterline below it is about 30" wide max. The 24 has overhangs fore and aft, so comparing it to a "modern" plumb bow/cut away stern boat, it is about the size and waterline of a modest 22' tri. The new Corsair/Farrier 22 has more space and a well thought out interior, but at 4-8 time the cost. The 2000 lbs 24's displacement gives away the size, while the 24 is not a big boat, it can carry two friends with some gear quite well. If the B-24 is built to spec and kept light, it will sail with anything close to its size. Mine certainly does.
B

 

stupid questions

Planning on making my first cuts this evening. YAY! Finally! Two possibly stupid questions, though.

If the stringers are attached to the hull sides before the frames go in, how does one know where to attach the stringers so they match up with the notches on the frames? Or are the stringers attached to the frames first?

If I use epoxy to attach the frames to the hull skins with a fillet, do I still need the extra wood on the edges of the frames, or is the fillet enough?

Technically 3 questions. Any insight greatly appreciated.

 

The longitudinal members are attached to the side panels first.
Yes, the wood frames are essential for strength.
Do not notch the frames when you first make them. When you have attached the stringers and gunnels etc: to the side panels, offer up the frames, one by one to the side panels and mark accurately the positions for the notches. Carefully cut out the notches in the edges of the frames, using a jigsaw and sharp wood chisel. Make sure all the holes, slots and notches are cut out and then apply two coats of thin epoxy to all parts of the frame, making sure you soak the end grains of the ply thoroughly with the epoxy. This applies particularly to the bulkheads 4&4A, and 7&7A
If you use thick Epoxy glue, the fillets are not necessary. (very fiddly and time consuming).
MOST IMPORTANT, the wood members on the frames have to be on the FRONT of the frames from frame #5 foreward and on the back of the frames aft of #5, as all the frame edges, except #5 have to be chamfered to match the angle of the sides.
TIP. When you have all the frames in place and you are sure there is no TWIST in the hull and before starting to plank the bottom, eyeball the edges of all the frames to make sure there are no gaps between the edges of the frames and the sides. If you see any , fill them with thickened epoxy.
Again, no need to make time consuming fillets. They do not add strength and if too big can actually crack away from the sides by the natural flexing of the sides in heavy weather sailing later on.

 

Thanks! I understand now.
More questions later I'm sure!