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  #136  
Old 10-16-2009, 06:33 AM
LucD LucD is offline
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Oldsailor7
Do you have photo of the inside of your boat? I didn't receive the plans yet so, for now, it's a little difficult to imagine everything you're saying.The other thing's is having a wooden daggerboard true a wooden hull scare the giblets out of me. For sail boat around here it's not if you will, it's when you will run a ground or hit something.
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  #137  
Old 10-16-2009, 06:55 AM
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oldsailor7 oldsailor7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucD View Post
Oldsailor7
Do you have photo of the inside of your boat? I didn't receive the plans yet so, for now, it's a little difficult to imagine everything you're saying.The other thing's is having a wooden daggerboard true a wooden hull scare the giblets out of me. For sail boat around here it's not if you will, it's when you will run a ground or hit something.
If the board case is made properly the daggerboard will snap off before doing any damage to the boat.
Of course the daggerboard can be replaced with a swinging centerboard like the B.28 quite easily.

I ran aground on rocks in Toronto harbour and only did minor damage to the front corner of the board. Of course the B.24 is a very light boat.
I was also on board a Crowther Spindriuft 45 and snapped off a board when we hit the side of a gulley at the mouth of Port Phillip Bay near Melbourne. The board was 4" thick but snapped off cleanly without damage to the boat. It was easy to graft on a new piece of Cedar with epoxy over the next couple of days and be back to racing by the weekend.

It doesn't have to be a big deal.
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  #138  
Old 10-16-2009, 10:41 AM
LucD LucD is offline
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I was thinking about a swinging centerboard but I guess it would take more space in a already small cabin.
I read on other forum (that you're also member of) mention a swing centerboard advantage to daggerboard is when racing because some can be remotely adjusted.
I don't know about the veracity of that since I'm still learning about leeway devices and their differences.
I read some book that mention different leeway devices but there's a lot of gray zone about that subject.
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  #139  
Old 10-16-2009, 11:48 AM
LucD LucD is offline
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Oldsailor7
I think at one time you mentioned somewhere you have the Buc 28 building instruction? Would it be possible to get a scan or copy Please?
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  #140  
Old 10-16-2009, 02:47 PM
trevey trevey is offline
 
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old sailor,
I'M LOOKING FOR PLANS FOR BUCCANEER 33. I HAVE A PAR4TIALLY COMPLETED 33, W/ MAST , RIGGING, SAILS, SPONSONS, BULKHEADS, WINCHES, LOTS OF SPRUCE AND STACK OF 5 PLY MARINE PLYWOOD...NO PLANS. LOST IN CATASTROPHIC EVENT . HELP FROM ANYWHERE OF ANY KIND APRECIATED. REALLY OLD SAILOR TREVEY
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  #141  
Old 10-16-2009, 05:05 PM
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oldsailor7 oldsailor7 is offline
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Originally Posted by trevey View Post
old sailor,
I'M LOOKING FOR PLANS FOR BUCCANEER 33. I HAVE A PAR4TIALLY COMPLETED 33, W/ MAST , RIGGING, SAILS, SPONSONS, BULKHEADS, WINCHES, LOTS OF SPRUCE AND STACK OF 5 PLY MARINE PLYWOOD...NO PLANS. LOST IN CATASTROPHIC EVENT . HELP FROM ANYWHERE OF ANY KIND APRECIATED. REALLY OLD SAILOR TREVEY
I am as sorry as you Trevey. The Buc 33 plans no longer exist.
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  #142  
Old 10-18-2009, 07:27 PM
aussiebushman aussiebushman is offline
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Dan

You would be well advised not to compromise with cheap materials. West System may be more expensive but the mixing and filler methods are idiot proof and overall, the cost of the epoxy is insignificant relative to the overall building cost. Re toxcicity, if you are allergic to epoxy, the brand is irrelevant. Use disposable latex gloves and wipe all the tools, gloves and work surfaces with white vinegar after each work session (before the epoxy kicks). Also make sure that hardener does not come into contact with the resin until it is intended. This means work cleanly.

One more thing, precoating ply with epoxy is fine in principle but do not use this method where any structural joins have to made later because the secondary bond will never be as strong as a primary bond. Also, be careful of amine bloom especially if working in cold weather when the cure time will be longer. If the surfaces look waxy, scrub them down with water and a nylon scourer and dry them off between coats. This sequence might seem laborious but by working on several different components at a time, one can be curing/drying while you proceed with a different job.

If you want to see pictures of a building sequence. look at www.mainproject.info

Hope this helps

Alan
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  #143  
Old 10-18-2009, 08:18 PM
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oldsailor7 oldsailor7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiebushman View Post
Dan

You would be well advised not to compromise with cheap materials. West System may be more expensive but the mixing and filler methods are idiot proof and overall, the cost of the epoxy is insignificant relative to the overall building cost. Re toxcicity, if you are allergic to epoxy, the brand is irrelevant. Use disposable latex gloves and wipe all the tools, gloves and work surfaces with white vinegar after each work session (before the epoxy kicks). Also make sure that hardener does not come into contact with the resin until it is intended. This means work cleanly.

One more thing, precoating ply with epoxy is fine in principle but do not use this method where any structural joins have to made later because the secondary bond will never be as strong as a primary bond. Also, be careful of amine bloom especially if working in cold weather when the cure time will be longer. If the surfaces look waxy, scrub them down with water and a nylon scourer and dry them off between coats. This sequence might seem laborious but by working on several different components at a time, one can be curing/drying while you proceed with a different job.

If you want to see pictures of a building sequence. look at www.mainproject.info

Hope this helps

Alan
A better Aussie product is Bote-Cote epoxy.
It is water washable before the end of working time and is WAY less toxic than WEST epoxy. Also there is no coating "Bloom" and being thixotropic it does not slide off into sags and runs on vertical surfaces. Secondary bonding is 100% after only a light sanding. Available in all locations in Australia.

(And I have no connection with Boatcraft Australia in Brisbane.)
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  #144  
Old 10-19-2009, 02:17 AM
Joe Moore Joe Moore is offline
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If you're in the UK it's worth giving the guys at MCMC a call if you're in the UK - www.matrixmouldings.co.uk

I've used them for epoxy when rebuilding my Cherub - www.uk-cherub.org - as they sell Sicomin which is much better than either West or SP in my experience. It's a lot less susceptible to an uneven mix or heat.
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  #145  
Old 10-20-2009, 11:16 AM
bruceb bruceb is offline
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Buc 24 cabin

LucD, Those are the best pics I have seen of a buc 24 cabin, but I have a question- it appears that the cabin has been extended aft about 12". Do you have a cockpit pic of the same boat? My boat was converted into a "day-sailor" with a open cockpit and I intend to put some sort of a cabin back, maybe more like "Capricorn". Bruce
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Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum-img005.jpg  
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  #146  
Old 10-20-2009, 02:25 PM
LucD LucD is offline
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He Bruce !
These are what I have for what you are asking.
I hope they will show what you are looking for.
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Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum-2059466_1.jpg  Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum-2059466_27.jpg  Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum-2059466_41.jpg  

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  #147  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:23 PM
bruceb bruceb is offline
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short cockpit

Thanks, it does look like it has a long cabin/short cockpit. Nice looking boat. I have gotten spoiled by my 9' cockpit, so I think I would like to keep at least a four person seating area and give up some cabin. I don't think there are many "stock" Buc 24s left Bruce
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  #148  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:36 PM
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oldsailor7 oldsailor7 is offline
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That cockpit is very nicely done---but it is certainly not based on the KISS principle. The structure supporting the mainsheet track has to be very strong and therefore heavy. It also severely restricts the room in the cockpit and access to the aft end of the boat.
A simple bridle eye bolted to the crossbeam tubes does the same job.

A wire from the corners of the transom, to the crossbeam can support a net, trampoline or as I did, a perforated ply decking, which opens up the whole back end of the boat and gives great protection from spray.

The B24 is such a delightfully simple boat. Why do some people feel they just
have to "Gild the lily".
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  #149  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:42 PM
bruceb bruceb is offline
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crossbeams

Does anyone know what the crossbeam structure/layup is on a Marples CC-26? (or a similar design) I keep looking at those beams as a good retrofit for the Buc 24. They are about the same size as a Buc 24's and they would make the 24 practical to trailer without very much modification of the Buc. Bruce
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  #150  
Old 10-20-2009, 04:17 PM
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oldsailor7 oldsailor7 is offline
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Bruce.
Why don't you contact Marples directly.
He is a very nice guy and I am sure he could help you out.
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