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  #16  
Old 04-11-2011, 01:26 PM
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Fanie, could you explain the idea with the bungee cords a little more. That sounds very interesting. I'm working on a central foil for a little cat, and wondering how best to arrange the kick-up function.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2011, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fanie View Post
Says who ! If the 6 doesn't plane it I'll put a 60 on it.

Actually it would be easier with two than with one board. The tubing just rotates with both boards. I also had in mind to use a down position stopper with bungee cord. If the boards are tilted up the bungee goes past the center line and keeps the boards up, like for when you hit structure or sailing downwind. Or that's the theory anyway.


Hard to tell, both have their hair on the outside !
======
That's a great idea.....
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2011, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Fanie, could you explain the idea with the bungee cords a little more. That sounds very interesting. I'm working on a central foil for a little cat, and wondering how best to arrange the kick-up function.
Perhaps something like this - and it's not to scale.

In the left the dagger board is down, the top bungee (green) has an offset from the rotating point hence keeps the daggerboard down with it's large lever advantage, while the bottom bungee goes against the rotating point and offers less force to pull it up, so the top bungee keeps the daggerboard down. The red pin sticking out to the left keeps the board from getting pulled furter than down by ie pressing on the hull.

Then if you hit an obstruction or tilt the dagger up, the two bungees roles change. The bottom one now has the big lever to keep the bungee up while the top one has little effect as illustrated on the right.

I haven't tested it yet but it should work. The reason for using two bungee's instead of just one is the shaft crosses right over between the two hulls. If the shaft is made to end flush with the side of the dagger board one could use one bungee that will either pull it down from the top, then when the board is up the bungee will keep the daggerboard up from below the rotating point. Kind of like a flip flop thing.
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Baby daysailor-dagger-board.jpg  Baby daysailor-dagger-board1.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2011, 09:31 PM
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That's very thought-provoking, Fanie. Thanks much. I can see possibilities for a variation on your idea that might work for my centerboard, which is located under the center deck, and so is difficult to reach. It would be very nice to have a board that kicks up and stays up until you pull a lanyard to put it back down. I'll have to do some drawings to work it out.
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  #20  
Old 04-12-2011, 12:43 AM
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Ray, how about a small push pull cable... ?

I got half the frame tacked together last night.
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  #21  
Old 04-12-2011, 05:45 PM
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I abondonned the frame I think I can do something better there.

Question - If the motor gets mounted on one of the hulls, how would it affect the steering / performance ?
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  #22  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:49 PM
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Just stay out of the pink area.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nile_crocodile
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  #23  
Old 04-16-2011, 01:32 PM
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LOL Hoyt,

The pink area is a little better by a few hundred percent than the black part on the bottom. That is mainly because the pink area crocodiles does not steal, murder, rape etc etc and do not do such stupid things as the crocodiles in the bottom black area.

Your map is not very acurate.
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  #24  
Old 04-16-2011, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fanie View Post
The pink area is a little better by a few hundred percent than the black part on the bottom. That is mainly because the pink area crocodiles does not steal, murder, rape etc etc and do not do such stupid things as the crocodiles in the bottom black area.
amen...
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  #25  
Old 04-16-2011, 03:08 PM
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Hi Wynand,

What do you think of my baby day sailor ? Step one is to make it motorised, then later add a sail and rudders / daggerboards for trawling by the wind.

I also got this hull from someone for free, what do you think ? Hull ID please
It's not as long as I thought, only 6m300...
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