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#1
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| Through hull fittings Hi I am currently refitting a Roberts steel ketch and was looking for some advice! The question is do I paint the boat before I put my through hull fittings in? Cheers Doug ![]() |
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#2
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| No, through hulls first, then primer and paint. |
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#3
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| Cheers Kay 9 |
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#4
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| I am curious, what are your thru hulls made of?
__________________ Custom Advantage Marine http://customadvantagemarine.ca |
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#5
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| only when it is welded on... Any other through hull fitting that get screwed on, prime and paint first before fitting.
__________________ Fair Winds Wynand Nortje http://www.steelboatbuilder.com/ There are no problems, only solutions - John Lennon; 1940 - 1980 |
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#6
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| Kay9, I've got no experience at all with steel hull construction, but I'm surprised (if not welding the through-hull in) that one wouldn't sand rough hole edges, prime at least inside and out with epoxy, and then attach the through-hulls. This, I would think, would protect steel from corrosion/electrolysis better. I'm not saying I know this is true, but only want to know why not. Alan |
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#7
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| No, you guys are right. I assumed he was putting steal through hulls in. If not welding in through hulls paint first. K9 |
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#8
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| Thanks chaps, The through hulls are stainless steel PSP fittings! and we are installing (welding) before paint. thanks |
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#9
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| Rhino Liner? A little off topic but related to coatings... Have any of you tried having a "Rhino Liner" style polymer sprayed on the interior surface? It seems that it should work. What do you think? Ray Tarr Patrick AFB, Fl 1963 Allied Seawind, Crackertail Hull # 25 |
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#10
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| What surface?...Wood, steal, GRP.?? |
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#11
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| I have a better suggestion. My Roberts steel hull had stand pipes to bring the water inlet cocks up to sea level. This is the best idea since sliced bread. Your boat wont sink and you can take the cocks off (with a bit of slop) to overhaul them should you so require. Any blockages can be cleaned out without going in the water. If you use a ball valve you can also clear by roding straight through. KIS |
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#12
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| Rhino Liner? In referance to Kay9's question, steel hull. I was juat thinking that if Rhino Liner works so well on trucks, it might work on hulls. I know they provide a lifetime guarentee. My only concern would be trapping moisture or rust under the polymer. It would be a bugger to get to once dry. I have a chance to get a steel hulled sailboat with a beautiful interior for a song-and-a-dance but it needs 30-40% of the plating below the waterline replaced. Do any of you have any experience in this? Also, if and when complete, I will be selling my 30 foot Allied Seawind pilothouse in case anyone is interested... Ray Tarr Patrick AFB, Fl 1963 Allied Seawind, Crackertail Hull # 25 |
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#13
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| stand pipes What an amazing, simple, and "why the heck doesn't everyone do this" idea. All three of my seacocks are stuck in the open position on my Seawind and I am worried ever time I go sailing. Unfortunately, I can't change the seacokcks unless I put her on the hard (an expensive proposition). Ray Tarr Patrick AFB, Fl 1963 Allied Seawind, Crackertail Hull # 25 |
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#14
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| Erwin. Yes I can help you out with some free advice on replaceing steel on your hull, your more then welcome to e-mail me or we can talk here. wbcaptain at charter dot net. As far as the rhino liner goes. I cant think of a reason it wouldnt work. Like you say it will be hard to get to if and when it corrodes, under it. So I guess that would make me think twice about doing it. I do not believe there is anything you can do to prevent rust on a steel boat. So my way of thinking is that I want access to be able to do preventive painting and scaling so that I can keep the rust in check. K9 |
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#15
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| Quote:
__________________ Fair Winds Wynand Nortje http://www.steelboatbuilder.com/ There are no problems, only solutions - John Lennon; 1940 - 1980 Last edited by Wynand N : 12-30-2007 at 01:42 AM. Reason: typo |
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