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  #16  
Old 07-17-2009, 10:53 AM
apex1
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Jeez shugar, this thread died 4 years ago...............
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2009, 08:37 AM
MikeJohns MikeJohns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpy bumpy View Post
Im afraid everyone is a bit of the mark with there welding advice .
Say what you think is incorrect, then we can learn from you perhaps.

cheers
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2009, 06:28 AM
lumpy bumpy lumpy bumpy is offline
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Quite right Mikejohns , ok clean your weld area back to bare steel , underneath as well. Grind into either ends of the original weld to make sure all cracks are removed . If your going to stick weld then unless youve got a perfect set up, ie as you would if doing a coding weld test then your going to have it hanging down like a bunch of grapes . This would lead to more grinding , welding underneath.
I would use mig process unless it was heavy plate such as 10mm and above then i would prefer fluxcore . Ceramic tiles are the dogs bollocks for this and most other butt work . Attach whatever length you need under your work then simply weld over your tiles , cap off with stick if you prefer . If youve took time with your prep etc when you remove the tiles below you should have a tidy finished job .
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  #19  
Old 08-08-2009, 08:23 AM
Ad Hoc Ad Hoc is offline
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Shouldn't you have also added that one can only be sure of the extent of the cracks, for removal, by dye-pen testing rather than by eye, as you appear to suggest?...hence, also, need to be careful if the grinding causes excessive gap between the joints. All you'll do is invite the trigger happy "gap fillers", thinking its ok to weld plate with gaps greater than 1/2t..

Agreed, ceramic is the DBs for this type of work.
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  #20  
Old 08-09-2009, 07:15 PM
lumpy bumpy lumpy bumpy is offline
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Personally i wouldnt dye pen if it was new construction , however if it was a repair maybe due to a fracture then by all means feel free to dye pen prior to welding.
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  #21  
Old 08-09-2009, 07:22 PM
Ad Hoc Ad Hoc is offline
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LB'y

Yes, if a new build, and just a 'mistake' (ie over zealous welding/heat) there should be no need for dye-pen. However, any repair that exhibits a 'crack-like' flaw, new or old, must be dye-pen'd to establish the extend of the crack. That's just basic QA, or at least should be!
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  #22  
Old 08-10-2009, 07:19 AM
lumpy bumpy lumpy bumpy is offline
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Bearing in mind the original starter of this thread was going to use either cement or wood i think basic QA might not apply in this case . Unless you know of a recognised procedure for this process.
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  #23  
Old 08-10-2009, 08:01 AM
Ad Hoc Ad Hoc is offline
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Like you, just responding to comments made.
Can't imagine one exists!...but since many are not aware of what QA is, thought it best just to point out...just in case anyone is interested in how quality fabrication is done!
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2009, 03:46 AM
MikeJohns MikeJohns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpy bumpy View Post
Quite right Mikejohns , ok .........Ceramic tiles are the dogs bollocks for this and most other butt work ............ .
I looked up Dogs-Bollocks and it's a peculiarly English term and there's even an alternative civil version "The Mutts Nuts"

In strine, anything with bollocks in the sentance means it's NFG particulalrly in welders parlance
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