Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Metal Boat Building
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-17-2009, 10:38 AM
Conachair Conachair is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 12
Location: Brazil
Spacers between wood and steel?

Everywhere there is wood touching metal I have rust so the wood has got to go, but not all of it, round the cockpit I want to keep some for various reasons. The current plan is to take the teak off, deal with the rust then remount the timber but with nylon spacers between the wood and the steel at each fastener leaving a small air gap between the timber and the steel. So the questions are-

Has anyone tried this and does it work?

Is nylon suitable? I know I can get nylon machined here in Brazil cheaply but not so sure about sourcing more exotic materials.

Any other options?

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-17-2009, 12:24 PM
alan white's Avatar
alan white alan white is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 1168 Posts: 3,269
Location: maine
Coat the faying surfaces of the wood with epoxy prior to assembly. Not a single coat, but several. Then coat the same surfaces with a bedding compound that will have some flexibility. Also overdrill fastener holes in the wood, fill the holes with thickened epoxy, and redrill.
There may be other things you can do, depending on whether the wood against the steel is also the wood exposed to the cockpit. The main issue is moisture transferring through the wood and the fastener hole as well. By sealing the wood with epoxy and sealing the holes too (and further, using a flexible sealant in the fastener holes), the steel to wood joint should remain dry and trouble-free.
It is prudent with any coating of wood with epoxy to seal the outer side as well, or to use an intermediate wood backer which serves as a basis for applying the finish wood.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-19-2009, 06:29 PM
MikeJohns MikeJohns is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Rep: 1623 Posts: 2,343
Location: Australia
To add to Alan's post

We have had good success over the years. The steel is be primed underneath and well beyond with a zinc rich epoxy followed by a normal epoxy topcoat. The timber is bolted on with a bed of polyurethane sealant around 5mm thick.

Varnish the timber first and the excess polyurethane can be easily cleaned off with turps or petrol also the fully varnished timber is stable wrt moisture induced dimension changes..

Doing this also fully supports the timber which can be thinner.

cheers
__________________
Mike Johns.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-19-2009, 08:54 PM
Landlubber's Avatar
Landlubber Landlubber is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Rep: 1491 Posts: 2,449
Location: Brisbane
Try to avoid mechanical fasteners too, no need usually when bedded in Sika. All my boats have stainless steel 316L under anything that moves or is covered in teak.
__________________
"I do not know, what I do not know!"
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Steel/ wood boat yard available in India vishnubaiju Boatbuilding 2 04-27-2008 06:37 AM
wood vs. steel vs. fiberglass sailboat hulls Petros Boat Design 10 11-16-2007 07:17 PM
Bending wood over steel frames..? Omeron Sailboats 17 06-29-2007 05:36 AM
Composite Steel/Wood Space frame analysis lawrencepeckham Software 21 11-13-2006 05:00 AM
Wood or Steel? axius0 Materials 12 09-21-2005 12:47 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:41 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net