Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Metal Boat Building
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-08-2008, 08:29 AM
westsail42 westsail42 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Rep: 10 Posts: 49
Location: usa
Smoothing and finishing stainless to a "mirror shine"

For you metal workers out there...

When you are done shaping and fabricating stainless parts, how to you sand/grind out scratches and polish the surface to a "mirror shine"?

Is it like varnishing wood where you use progressively finer grits? Then finish off with a polish?

I need to do this with a stainless part and have never done it before.

thanks!
__________________
Building out a Westsail 42 Ketch
http://on.fb.me/hYZxpC
www.westsail42.com
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-08-2008, 08:41 AM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Rep: 67 Posts: 243
Location: so. california
stainless

depends on the shape of the parts, but in general 80 grit paper mabee on a D/A sander if it is flat / then 150 paper / scotch bright pads (fine) on hand held or bench grinder / green rousche and a cotton buffing wheel.

that shoud give you a nice polished finish, they also electro polish stainless.

Not an expert but it works for me

mark
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-08-2008, 10:43 AM
alan white's Avatar
alan white alan white is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 1211 Posts: 3,325
Location: maine
I have used 3M (scotchbrite) pads on a hand-held grinder. They require a special rubber disc with a 5/8" threaded arbor, available where the discs are sold. The system has several disc grits, which take over where sanding discs leave off (maybe 180 grit). They have a plastic threaded stud on the back that screws into a threaded hole on the face of the disc. They're very fast to change, requiring a quick twist counterclockwise.
After reaching the highest polish you can get with the 3M discs, you can machine buff using progressive compounds that go up into the thousands.
Using these progressive methods will ensure no deep scratches appear later.
Small parts can be done on a bench machine.

Alan
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-10-2008, 11:30 PM
SaltOntheBrain SaltOntheBrain is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Rep: 66 Posts: 80
Location: crosbyton, TX
I agree fully with what Alan White said.

Sometimes scotchbrite discs can be hard to find, though. I made my own out of scotchbrite pads. Cut discs out of a pad (the black one made for stainless) and use a piece of sharpened 7/8" S/S tubing to punch your arbor hole.

They work best on a Challenger disc nut and backer. Sait/United Abrasives makes the Challenger discs and they use a special nut and flexible cupped backer. They work well because they cup the pad enough that it can be used flat and the nut won't touch.(You mught need to double-stack the pads, though)

They also make cotton buffing wheels that work on small angle grinders, so you don't need a bunch of different tools. You'll be surprised how fast you can get the finish you're looking for with just a grinder and a handful of stuff for it.

Lance.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-11-2008, 12:21 AM
westsail42 westsail42 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Rep: 10 Posts: 49
Location: usa
Thanks for the tips guys. My vendor supplies Scotchbrite conditioning pad from coarse to very fine, in 2 inch diameters (this is a small part). Price is pretty reasonable (86 cents per pad). It uses the Roloc system that I think Alan was describing. They also sell adaptors to a power drill and are pretty inexpensive to (the part in question is already installed).


I will give that a try.

Thanks again.
__________________
Building out a Westsail 42 Ketch
http://on.fb.me/hYZxpC
www.westsail42.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-11-2008, 12:36 AM
alan white's Avatar
alan white alan white is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 1211 Posts: 3,325
Location: maine
That's right, it's Roloc. I use the 3" size. The speed at which you can change grits is amazing.
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CMD "project Zeus" VS VOLVO "IPS" gerard baladi Pod Drives 13 09-10-2007 09:23 PM
Boat "workshop" including a "testing tank" zmfmd Open Discussion: All Things Boats & Boating 0 08-08-2007 04:43 AM
Drawing for Rhino of "Boat Racing Chair" and "Machine Gun" Vibtor Software 0 10-02-2004 02:03 PM
Here is what I am "finishing..." :D Lenny Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 0 03-16-2004 09:03 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:04 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net