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#16
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| Hi TimGoz, 1. I never uses any full size templates, tempting as it may, but always loft my hull and deck frames. 2. The hull get pulled of the jig and a temporary stay fitted to keep the hull sides from collapsing inwards - see photo above. Then the deck beams and deck stringers are installed and the beam sheer takes shape. 3. On my TT24 I fitted an 8hp inboard marine diesel (see photo) and easily moves the hull to max displacement speed of about 6 knots and maintains it even in a blow - Port Elizabeth, S. Africa and it is notorious for it's winds. However, if you looked closely, you will notice that this TT24 has no full keel but a fin. This is a modification I done after hull number one and was for the better. She points better, light on tiller and actually tracks like a train on rails. I regret selling my TT24 at the time and she has done a circumnavigation with her current owner since. Feels like building one for myself again...... ![]()
__________________ Wynand A scatterling of Africa Follow my latest project here: http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1530My Webpage: Steel Boatbuilding: http://5psi.net |
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#17
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| Waynand, Even though Roberts says "Do Not Loft" the boat from the offsets, but to use the full sized patterns, I was very skeptical. All the reading & research I've done gives the opposite recommendation, as do you. My machinist's mentality & the fact the "patterns" are now over 15yrs. old dictate lofting also. My offsets table included with the plans was never printed clearly. One & a half decades later it is hard to make out. Hopefully he could supply me another. TGoz |
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