Getting free 12' aluminum boat - questions

[mn_boater]

I'm getting a free 12' aluminum from the in-laws that my wife and I are planning on using for fishing the local lakes (small lakes). The only catch was that I had to get a trailer. That was easy though - $350 later I have a new one from Northern Tool now sitting in my garage. I didn't mind spending a little money since the boat was free. That done, I searched through my picture archives from recent cabin visits and found a few pictures of the boat, which I will pick up in two weeks.

Below you will see the pics. It ain't pretty, but it's free.

I have a few questions on what I will probably need to do to it. First off, the transom wood looks to be rotted out. I've already found a place to buy marine grade plywood in town, so that'll be project number one. I already know the motor runs okay (I think it's a Johnson - between 6 & 10 horse) and the boat doesn't leak, so that's good. Also, the tank is a new plastic one, and all the fuel lines are new, so no worries there either.

Will some elbow grease and sand paper get rid of that terrible paint job?

Anybody have a clue what kind of boat it is? Year?

Think I'll need to take care of anything else?

[SamSam]

Originally Posted by mn_boater

Will some elbow grease and sand paper get rid of that terrible paint job?

Anybody have a clue what kind of boat it is? Year?

Think I'll need to take care of anything else?

1. Sure will. I would consider some flames when you repaint.

2. If it has a HIN number on the upper right hand corner on the outside of the transom, or on any paperwork, that will tell you who the mfr. was and when it was built.

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html

3. Beer and bait. What's really handy is swivel seats with a backrest that attach to the seats you have. You might want to put flotation under the seats if there isn't any in the boat.

[sal's Dad]

The price is right...

Don't bother with Marine Grade plywood, it's overkill for this application. Plain exterior grade should do fine.

Sal's Dad

[Bergalia]

Agree with both SamSam and Sal's Dad. Well coated exterior ply will serve to reinforce transom - and floatation devices a MUST...Not too sure about the flames though...But a little 'gentle' panel-beating might not go amiss. Tight lines.

[lazeyjack]

have to agree Bergs, dont heat the boat you will loose it temper, if you are not careful, and that not meant as a joke,
coat your ply in resin, make the first coat thin, with epoxy or universal thinners, and then scuff, and recoat with thick unthinned poxy resin, I have to agree, that boat is ugly)

[SamSam]

NO no no no. Not this...



This is what I meant...

[Bergalia]

Despite the flames Sam, I doubt it would float...

[SamSam]

If they can do it in Cooba....

[Bergalia]

Originally Posted by SamSam

If they can do it in Cooba....

Now you're getting political.....

[charmc]

Originally Posted by lazeyjack

dont heat the boat you will loose it temper, if you are not careful, and that not meant as a joke,

MN Boater,

Lazeyjack's right; be careful with sanding or wire brushing. It's possible to build up heat from friction too much; that could cause "hot spots" of weakened/brittle metal.

Apart from replacing the transom wood and removing the dregs of that paint job ... the boat's not bad. It's a classic aluminum skiff. About as bare bones as a boat gets, but it's a boat, and that means you can get to some really cool places and spend lots of constructive time fishing. Things could be a lot worse.

[lazeyjack]

you are so positive abt all Charlie,
you remind me of the girl who upon opening her room xmas morning found a pile of horse muck, she just burrowed into it, saying,"with all thsi crap, there must be a pony somewhere" thats optomism

[USCGRET/E8]

To remove the paint, you can use paint remover. A water rinsable is easiest to use. I did this on an old Starcraft years ago. If the old paint is stuck well, you could lightly sand and feather it, then repaint with a nicer color. Use an etching primer on any bare spots.

[mn_boater]

Thanks for all the replies. So you think I'd be better off with a paint remover? Is that less work than sanding, or do you get better results? I was planning on sanding by hand so as to not damage the metal - I figured an powered orbital may be asking for trouble.

Thanks for the tip on the plywood! That'll save me some money and lot of hassle. Am I correct in assuming that the plywood should not be treated, since that probably wouldn't get along the best with the aluminum?

I pick up the boat this weekend!

[timgoz]

Hi MN,

Don't know how this thread made it past me.

I had to replace the transom on my 14.5' aluminum skiff. All that I could get was exterior ply as I was in an Alaskan outport. I'd still consider marine ply if you intend to use her for a number of years. The main thing, regardless of ply type, is to seal it very well. Pay particular attention to the edges once cut out and ready for fitting. I used 2 layers of 3/4" ply. Maybe overkill, but the transom has alot of load applied.

Your outboard looks bigger than a 6-10hp. Could you post several close-ups of it?

The boat looks to be a welded skiff vs. a riveted one. The struts/runners on the bottom are most likely welded. If they are riveted, get a sealant and apply to each rivet. Ant struts from the seats to gunwale are most likely riveted. This is generally a problem area. May need refastened.

I have heard treated ply reacts adversly to aluminum. Remember, your ply will be thoroughly "treated" by the epoxy. Am aluminum section of angle where the outbourd mounts will save the transom alot of abuse.

I would not sand. If she is extreemly ugly I might consider a chemical remover. Function is beauty, so do not be overly concerned with looks.

If you ever repower a 9.9hp will be all you need. Much above that will be overkill, IMHO.

These skiffs are great, functional little boats. May you have many great days with it.

Welcome to the forum & take care.

Tim

[PAR]

Use truck bed liner coating on the old girl and just scuff up the old paint with a ScotchBrite pad to nock of the loose stuff and make the surface ready for paint. It's a thick enough paint, you'll never see any of the old finish again. You could media blast her, which is very fast and effective, but should be done by someone who is familiar with blasting thin sheet aluminum, so it doesn't get hot or work harden. Elasticomeric roof coating is also a good choice. The stuff they use on mobile home roofs. It's also a thick, very tough paint.

Aside from cover what you have with a thick, tough paint, you can use chemical strippers, but insure it doesn't react with aluminum. I'm reasonably sure most water based versions don't. Also, really insure it's flushed out of the nooks and crannies of the boat or it could continue working, maybe eating away rivets or the hull shell.

I agree, the engine looks to be around a 15 - 20 HP, which is more then she needs, though I've had 30 HP motors on similar aluminum fishers and had a hell of a lot of fun.

The transom issue has been covered and floatation is always a good idea.

She's cost you little, no need to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Maybe a camo paint job with the ugliest exterior house colors you can find. A real clean, shinny paint job will expose all the dents and surface flaws she wears as badges of honor. A down and dirty, semi flat or flat paint job, will help hide these flaws and you can sneak up on ducks and hit them on the head with a paddle or something.

If it was me, I'd paint it flat olive drab and in dark green paint "US ARMY" or "US CALVARY" on the side, just to have some fun. Maybe flat black and "USAF BOMB DISPOSAL" in safty yellow, okay, it's time for my medication.

Good Luck . . .