Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Metal Boat Building
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #16  
Old 03-13-2011, 01:01 AM
Dean Smith Dean Smith is offline
Previous Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Rep: 0 Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katoh View Post
G'Day Dean
Those holes in the hull Ive got other plans for, I plan to drill them to 20mm or3/4" then with the CNC machine route some 10mm plate down 5mm circle on one side same dia as the hole, but leave it longer length then tack a rod on it so you can hold it. Do not know if I am explaining it right, its like patching a hole in a hollow wall. Then with all the extra material there I can really give it some, get penetration and fill from one side only. I only have access to one hole not all through the hull.
Cheers
Katoh
yes mate its fine, there are more than 10 ways to skin a cat
My mate has just built ( from scratch) his own design a 7 cyl radial engine
At peak power, that is cruise power, the heads were overheating, he had to extend every fin, there must be a dozens of em, he used a copper backing bar
I am not saying use that for salt water situations
Just for the reference , you can buy ceramic backing back in strip, they are rather like tiles, mainly used in steel seams and butts, never have tried on alu but will one day. Even with pulse , single sided welding still needs that backing medium
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-13-2011, 03:55 AM
Katoh Katoh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 58 Posts: 196
Location: A.C.T
Dean,
Mate I hear you! My biggest problem I just don't have the experience and Knowledge in this field, that's why we ask the question's, to get the answer's and hopefully there right. If I knew I wouldn't ask, but you can very easily put all lthe equations together and get the big picture.
I never even thought about ceramics, but s/s would still be easier to make something up.
that salt water stuff, its real friendly is it not? Only if your a fish, mind you a salt water fish at that it might be Ok.
Ad Hoc
I would dearly love to get in contact with the builder, who apparently retired in the late 90's, He could answer so many questions that would make my life so much easier. I would not even know were to start looking for him, I have tried all the internet searches ect, even contacted a firm he used to have dealings with, but this is Oz and don't hold your breath for a reply , as blue is not a good shade for people to have.
Thanks
Katoh
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-13-2011, 10:26 AM
PSG-1's Avatar
PSG-1 PSG-1 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Rep: 27 Posts: 17
Location: XX' 5313 N, XX' 0526 W
I've heard of using copper as a backing plate. I also know that copper, if left in contact with aluminum, will cause horrible corrosion. Having said that, I'd use a thick piece of stainless, about 1/4" thick as my backing plate. And just FYI, stainless will also cause aluminum to corrode if left in contact with it.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-13-2011, 01:03 PM
fishhawk fishhawk is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Rep: 10 Posts: 5
Location: colorado & florida
Ad Hoc, Yes aircraft are riveted, the primary alloys are 2024-t3 & 7075-t6 that should never be welded, there are a lot of other weldable alloys used, such as 3003,5052 5083 & 5086 that we call "work hardened" & 6061,6063 that must be heat treated after welding. I do not profess to be as knowledgeable as you in engineering matters. Back in the 90s, i built a 18" setback transom for my wellcraft, i used 1/2" 5086-h112 tig welded with 5356, painted with fluid resistant primer, and finished with imron,now 13 years later there is no signs of corrosion, not even a small bubble. I am not trying to win this argument, only to insure that KOTAH does a good repair that does not fail in the future. KOTAH, if you want to use stainless, go ahead, it will work as well as copper
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-13-2011, 01:15 PM
tazmann tazmann is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Rep: 192 Posts: 218
Location: California
Clean steel works for temp backing allso if you dont have stainless available.
Tom
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 03-13-2011, 06:01 PM
Katoh Katoh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 58 Posts: 196
Location: A.C.T
I have plenty of everything, stainless, copper, mild steel. My father suffers from in the incurable "rusty iron disease", there is a pile of crap that would rival the very best of hoarders.
Katoh
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 03-25-2011, 09:52 AM
alidesigner alidesigner is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Rep: 93 Posts: 171
Location: Australia
It might be a bit late but if you havent done it yet have you thought of using alloy brazing rods.
You can get them here
http://tinyurl.com/alloywelding
__________________
Steve Chapple
www.cncmarine.com.au
Consulting & Alloy Kit Boats
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 03-25-2011, 11:55 AM
hoytedow's Avatar
hoytedow hoytedow is offline
Resistor
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Rep: 1871 Posts: 3,357
Location: Norte de Cuba
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ad Hoc View Post
Just fill with epoxy if non structural.

NEVER allow copper to come in contact with ally....it will eat the ally!
I agree. If it is only cosmetic and you are painting anyway, epoxy is best.
__________________
Hoyt
"Lightning is very selective and will not strike crap." Wynand N
"We Redistribute World's Wealth By Climate Policy" UN IPCC Official
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 03-25-2011, 08:51 PM
Katoh Katoh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 58 Posts: 196
Location: A.C.T
Gentlemen
Thanks for the suggestions,
I have actually become very proficient at this hole filling business, with the mig and a spoolgun, takes me 5 seconds if that to fill the hole with a stainless backing plate and a quick grind with a flapper sander on both sides. You would never know the hole ever existed, or I defy anyone to pick were the hole was. I find this works perfectly up to 12mm or 1/2" hole with absolute minimal heat into the plate.
I only use 5356 filling wire.
Many Thanks to all!
Katoh
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 04-10-2011, 09:10 AM
scott hightower's Avatar
scott hightower scott hightower is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Rep: 25 Posts: 7
Location: Georgia
I have used copper as a backing plate. You may even consider putting the copper on the front side instead so you don't have as much clean up. If the back side is not exposed you can place a small dime sized patch over the hole.

You probably already know this but you need 100% argon as a sheilding gas when welding aluminum.

Scott
welders360
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 10-21-2011, 01:16 AM
pwsf pwsf is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Rep: 10 Posts: 2
Location: Alaska
Aluminum CAN'T be clean enough to weld. I like to drill the holes out a size larger to get to fresh alum as well as grind both inside and out. I would weld them shut and then finish them by grinding and sanding them later.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 10-21-2011, 07:07 AM
Katoh Katoh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 58 Posts: 196
Location: A.C.T
Quote:
Aluminium CAN'T be clean enough to weld. I like to drill the holes out a size larger to get to fresh alum as well as grind both inside and out
I like to use a a flap disk on a drill, sorry just cant think of the proper material name at present, drawn an absolute blank in my mind. The fingers penetrate the hole giving a clean alloy base to weld upon, I have made a a backing handle with a plate of 316Stainless you hold over one side of the hole and just fill from the other, works a treat!
__________________
Cheers
Katoh
I maybe slow, but by crikey I'm rough
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Repair grommet screw holes in aluminum arch ikaminnear Boatbuilding 3 02-11-2010 08:32 AM
Filling old holes on a steel deck. Conachair Metal Boat Building 6 07-23-2009 04:44 PM
Filling old screw holes in deck... mdevour Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 12 10-16-2007 07:09 PM
Aluminum alloys for small boat sal's Dad Metal Boat Building 7 04-19-2006 07:53 AM
Composite Question, filling transom holes foca Powerboats 5 07-09-2004 11:46 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:10 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net