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#1
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| Back Step Welding Newbie questions here....what is "backstepping" your weld Or a "weld backstep" Also, why is it needed for steel hulls.....sorry for this, I know it is prob point 1 I should already know. Cheers Matt |
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#2
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| easy, backstep, you run say in Mig, as long as comfortable, , then you chip back and then you run to where you started, in ALLOY the length does not matter but in steel dont run too far you must remember to keep welding even on both sides of the hull, |
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#3
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| backstepping, minimises distortion. in steel you can pre peen plate edges, which then , when you weld shrinks the plate back to somewhere near where it was peening means, placing a dolly under the plate and hammering along the edge |
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#4
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| fore and aft joints are called seams, , vertical plate joins we call butts |
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#5
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| some more welding tips; http://www.steelboatbuilder.com/hull9.html Below is a rough sketch showing the welding sequence in back stepped welding. The reason is that as you weld, the molten steel cooling down shrinks and when you weld in one direction only, the shrink will be directional as well, and pull the joint into a curve. To prevent this, you run welds in the opposite direction spaced in between to cancel this out. Just take care that you weld port and starboard at the same time. I actually seen a hull welded by an amateur, that is banana shaped lengthwise. He welded one side complete before tackling the other side ![]()
__________________ Wynand A scatterling of Africa Follow my latest project here: http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1530My Webpage: Steel Boatbuilding: http://5psi.net |
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#6
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| Quote:
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#7
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| good link there ya go plowman take a gink at this |
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#8
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#9
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| Quote:
After having done my stint of 11 years building steel hulls, from 7.5 to 20 meters LOA, with the thickest hull plating only 4mm thick, and believe me, I produced extremely fair hulls, the method I shown above in the hand drawn sketch is the best way to go. The trick is not only to backstep , but also reversing direction of weld by doing so as I described above. You know my friend, there are so many persons out there trying to make a buck by producing books etc on how to do this and to do that....all nicely illustrated, BUT, how many of them have actually done practically what they preach ![]()
__________________ Wynand A scatterling of Africa Follow my latest project here: http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1530My Webpage: Steel Boatbuilding: http://5psi.net |
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#10
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| Oh BTW Lazeyjack, did I mention I am a qualified boilermaker for at least 29 years and have seen and tried most there is to steel and welding in general
__________________ Wynand A scatterling of Africa Follow my latest project here: http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1530My Webpage: Steel Boatbuilding: http://5psi.net |
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#11
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| no but I have a few years on you, you may call it something different, it matters not. lets just say we are both rght DEal? |
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#12
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| if you look at my galelry, I made everything there, I got nothing from a book at all, (not the keel) |
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#13
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| You're right! Hey Senior Members, Actually you're both sorta right. Illustration "b" shows a skip welding sequence and backstepping technique. Does anybody know what the symbols are for this on a print? ..regards, rusty |
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#14
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| Quote:
When I switched from Steel to Alloy I was amazed how forgiving alloy is Steel dirty heavy rusty and if you use the good stuff like Corten, then it becomes hard to form, but super strong A lot of MS is so poor now, that it does not even have the tensile of high ten alloy, you press it, its soggy crap |
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#15
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| Nice Boats Lazyjack, I really enjoyed your gallery, that's some pretty impressive work. I suppose that's how you get to be a senior member. I believe you got the answer right about the welding symbol, I'm not sure if there is one either , regards, rusty |
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