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  #16  
Old 11-22-2007, 05:33 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
"2 people, one with an impact hammer and one with a "buck" to install solid rivets."

I have repaired older Feathercraft Deluxe runabouts , and Grumman dinks with off the shelf aircraft riveter, and bucking material.

The bucker is a NO SKILL job so help , even the bride , can do it easily.

Although "she who must be obeyed" requires an ear noise protector to be drafted.

With a not very complex hull shape , what are the chances of the "viking" overlapped hull build method , for riveting being produced with a CNC?

Or would the cost of the computer work and cutout offset any building simplicity advantage of no welding ?

FF
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  #17  
Old 11-22-2007, 12:11 PM
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rwatson rwatson is offline
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Fast Fred -
If you were talking about Rick W's slender craft, I think the 'Viking' method a huge overkill. Its basically two 'U' sections joined.
Personally, I think its an ideal glass/resin job over foam, if ever there was one given its size and shape IMHO.
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2007, 04:05 PM
mydauphin mydauphin is offline
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Brazing AL not for Boats

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwatson View Post
Rick, if you need to do some really light weight aluminium for your pedal power boats, I noticed that at
[url]Aluminium can be brazed by torch, dip or furnace processes as long as close temperature control is maintained."

There are specially designed brazing torches that can braze a beer can cut in half and leave it waterproof.
That AL brazing rod is made from 2000 series AL and contains trace elements of Brass and Lead. It will corrode very quickly in salt water, probably taking most of your boat with it. PLEASE dont use in BOAT.

FYI
Also I have wwii aluminum skiff. Made by Memphis???..
Been dropped many times, fixed once. Great little bay boat. Replaced 2 rivets
It is riveted, about 300lbs, original paint. Plan to give it to my grandchildren.
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2007, 09:37 PM
duckdog duckdog is offline
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You can also get avex tank rivets they are a "pop" rivet that has a closed end I used some on a patch on mine, I was recommened them by an aircraft builder

Nelson


Quote:
Originally Posted by theoldwizard View Post
The "rivet guns" I have seen, shoot "pop" rivets, that leave a hole. Fast, but are you going to trust sealant on that many holes ?

The (home built) aircraft industry use a rivet "squeezer" or 2 people, one with an impact hammer and one with a "buck" to install solid rivets.
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  #20  
Old 11-30-2007, 05:54 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
If you were talking about Rick W's slender craft, I think the 'Viking' method a huge overkill. Its basically two 'U' sections joined.
Personally, I think its an ideal glass/resin job over foam, if ever there was one given its size and shape IMHO.

I'm actually contemplating an Atkin Seabright hull with box keel and reverse deadrise.
I would prefer Airex construction , but the aluminum , IF it could be pre cut to simply rivet over a strong back would fall within my hull building ability.

The original plan was to get her built in Canada but the recent rise in the C$ makes that budget harder.

FF
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