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#16
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| "2 people, one with an impact hammer and one with a "buck" to install solid rivets." I have repaired older Feathercraft Deluxe runabouts , and Grumman dinks with off the shelf aircraft riveter, and bucking material. The bucker is a NO SKILL job so help , even the bride , can do it easily. Although "she who must be obeyed" requires an ear noise protector to be drafted. With a not very complex hull shape , what are the chances of the "viking" overlapped hull build method , for riveting being produced with a CNC? Or would the cost of the computer work and cutout offset any building simplicity advantage of no welding ? FF |
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#17
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| Fast Fred - If you were talking about Rick W's slender craft, I think the 'Viking' method a huge overkill. Its basically two 'U' sections joined. Personally, I think its an ideal glass/resin job over foam, if ever there was one given its size and shape IMHO. |
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#18
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| Brazing AL not for Boats Quote:
FYI Also I have wwii aluminum skiff. Made by Memphis???.. Been dropped many times, fixed once. Great little bay boat. Replaced 2 rivets It is riveted, about 300lbs, original paint. Plan to give it to my grandchildren. |
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#19
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| You can also get avex tank rivets they are a "pop" rivet that has a closed end I used some on a patch on mine, I was recommened them by an aircraft builder Nelson Quote:
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#20
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| If you were talking about Rick W's slender craft, I think the 'Viking' method a huge overkill. Its basically two 'U' sections joined. Personally, I think its an ideal glass/resin job over foam, if ever there was one given its size and shape IMHO. I'm actually contemplating an Atkin Seabright hull with box keel and reverse deadrise. I would prefer Airex construction , but the aluminum , IF it could be pre cut to simply rivet over a strong back would fall within my hull building ability. The original plan was to get her built in Canada but the recent rise in the C$ makes that budget harder. FF |
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