What Glasman said about not using varnish if using epoxy is foolish. Epoxy has no UV protection and will break down rather quickly if the sun light from a port or hatch falls on it. In just a few months the shine will be noticeably less and the color will be darker, in a few more months the epoxy will be very dark and starting to break down, where the wood will begin to show. It's a fast down hill slide from there. The rest of Glassman's comments I didn't really understand, and seeing as I probably just pissed him off I'll leave it alone.
Epoxy isn't the cure all a lot of folks would have you believe. It's expensive, toxic, messy and can be difficult to work with in some conditions. Delamination in solid wood veneers is possible when wet/dry cycling occurs between the lumber and adhesive used to bond it to the substrate. If the substrate (surface it's being bonded to) is stable or reasonably so, like a fiberglass bulkhead, then only the wood needs be sealed and a water proof adhesive used. There are several water proof adhesives available, most much less costly then epoxy. If the substrate is less stable like solid lumber or to a lesser degree plywood, then this surface must be sealed as well.
I like varnish to seal wood. Polys are nice, develop a great shine, last a long time, but if let go to long or abused, are all but imposable to repair without stripping. If varnish is dinged, the ding can be feathered and more varnish "flowed" into the area. If it has been let go for too long, it can be abated (sanded) and fresh coats applied to restore the finish. This isn't the case with poly's, they're just too hard. A ding requires removal and reapplication as does a poly finish not kept up.
About using 1/4" oak veneer for the headliner. If the area is reasonably small, then go for it, but large areas may have the added result of a lot of weight in a position where you may not want it. Typically you'll find red oak at the local home centers and it has very poor rot resistance qualities about it, though in veneers or the thin stock you've got in mind, it may do okay if well sealed. This is a place I would use epoxy (CPES). The 1/4" thick strips of red oak would suck up to near saturation and be pretty rot free for quite along time.
Personally, I use resorcinol (completely water proof) or plastic resin adhesive (only water resistant, but good inside a boat) to bond the veneer (both usually available at the local hardware store) and then varnish to suit (also available at the local Ace) Use real solid wood veneers or use exterior or marine grade plywood (1/8" is fine for furniture or liner skins) The thin plywood will be a special order from Lowes/Depot if they can get it as will the solid wood veneer. You may have better luck at a custom cabinet shop getting lumber or ply. Mail order supply houses are another option.
12-06-2004, 12:42 PM
Similar Threads 
Linear Mode
