Wood deck inlay....

[24degrees]

I have a '74 Magnum 27 Sport that originally had a wood deck inlay that I'd like to recreate.

I am wondering what the best wood would be to use for this?......I'm thinking of Ribbon Mahagony or Teak. I'd like a fairly linear grain.

Also......what would be the best glue to use to attach it?

Thanks much,
Aaron

Here's a crummy pic of what I'm talking about....

[PAR]

Thin wooden veneers set in epoxy will be most durable. Mahogany is traditional, though wood choices are up to you. This could also be set in polyurethane, though some movement should be expected.

[24degrees]

By "thin" what do you mean?........I need a 4x10ft piece and the thinnest I can find is 6mm.

Also......what is meant by "set in polyurethane"?

Thanks much,
Aaron

[PAR]

Typical decks like this are put down in strips of thin wood (veneer decking). 6 mm would be kind of thick (1/2") for a veneer deck. Unless you use the fake deck plywood products available (which is what the factory may have done), you should use solid wood. General solid wood dimensions for your boat could be something like 2 1/4" wide by 1/4" thick by what ever length you need. Often times each strip has a lapped edge to provide a caulking gap. They are laid side by side (of course cut to length and shape, just like a hardwood floor in your house) and are glued in place. The glue can be epoxy (my recommendation) or a polyurethane adhesive, which is more flexible. Some times small fasteners (brads) are used in the caulking seams to help hold the pieces down until the glue dries. When dry, the seams are then filled with seam sealant (usually polysulfide, but many now use polyurethane) which covers the brads.

There are premade decking products available now, some are plywood, all you have to do is cut it to shape and bond it on. Most of the sheet goods are available in 4 x 8 sheets, but I would think you can order larger panels (5 x 10). The edges will need some sort of treatment (a hardwood cap or something) to cover the end grain, but these can look nice to some folks.

There are even composite panels, of inert materials that have a wood pattern printed on then, with a clear coat finish pre-applied. These would install like a plywood panel and also require an edge treatment. I'm not sure what your boat manufacture used on the fore deck, but you do have several possabilities.

I'm also not sure of the look you're after - a big panel of solid wood (like a sheet of plywood) or a more traditional laid deck (strips of solid wood with caulk seams) but there are several options open to you.

[24degrees]

Thanks again...

The factory used a thin laminate apparently......some even say it might have been Formica......

I would prefer to use a solid piece of plywood.....but with linear grain. Ribbon Mahagony looks about right.

The inlay was also screwed down around the perimeter......which I would do also.

Here are some more pics.....although bad.

[24degrees]

How about a piece of teak plywood?......

[jachristner]

I'm interested in doing a hardwood floor for the interior of my boat. Is there a way to give it a clear finish that won't be dangerously slippery when wet?

[alan white]

One method I heard about recently was groove and groove planks with + section joiner pieces between. So the planks might be 5/8". with a groove down each edge, and the filler pieces that join adjacent planks are about 1/16" above the planks, so that every 2-3" there is a 1/4" wide raised ridge, which gives very good footing even when wet.
An oiled finish should be somewhat less slippery. The trick of getting a good oil finish is to sand the wood so finely that it has the desired shine before oiling (oil itself has no shine). Stopping at a coarser grit (say, #180) and then oiling will make the floor a bit less slippery too. Tung oil is the preferred oil.
A combination of the two methods above should work pretty well.
The last word in non-skid would be an unfinished teak sole. It may have some sort of "invisible" protective treatment applied, but if otherwise left alone, it grips very well when wet. If you like the look of unfinished teak, you're all set.

Alan

[Pericles]

Better late etc,

http://www.advancedmarinedecking.co....-customers.htm

Pericles

[retired racer]

Teak and Holly plywood is tradional look and beautiful if the area is no bigger than 4X8 which requires a joint. http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/marine_plywood.htm

[DanishBagger]

Originally Posted by PAR

[ … ] 6 mm would be kind of thick (1/2") for a veneer deck. [ … ]

6mm would be slightly under 1/4 inch.

[NauticalLumber]

24degrees-
If you need any of the above mentioned products: teak or mahogany planks, Teak & Holly plywood or teak plywood i have that in stock for you. I am able to make cutom planking as well. Let me know if i can help.

[FAST FRED]

Bowling alley varnish or gym varnish are designed to be fairly no skid when wet, BUT don't have UV protection so may not last as long as some outside.

I have been on smaller boats that simply used surf board wax on areas that needed to be no skid.

FF