Thinning Bottom Paint

[michael pierzga]

Oh and as a detail to improve paint adhesion I notice that the Tech representative always insists that after surface prep...sanding...the underwater surface of the hull is washed with fresh water and a soft scrub brush to remove any dust, contaminates, morning water dew, tracks....
this wash down is performed first thing in the morning and the bottom is painted in the late afternoon.

[Chuck Losness]

Thanks for the responses. I personally don't have any knowledge one way or the other nor an opinion. Everybody here just rolls their paint on. Shade doesn't seem to matter much but early morning seems to be the best time because it's cooler, 90 to 95, verses afternoon when it's 100+. Nobody does anything in the afternoon here except try to stay as cool as possible. Makes for a short work day.
Micheal and Whitepointer
Looks like you both could be right. The MSDS states in the application section "Thinning is not recommended. Use up to 5% in hot, windy conditions." What's interesting is that when I looked at the USA version of the MSDS for ABC 3 paint by PP&G it doesn't mention thinning at all. Maybe I missed it.

[whitepointer23]

while on the antifouling subject. has anyone here had the hull cleaned by soda blasting and if so was it a good result. i ask because i am thinking of getting this done next year to get back to the gelcoat. my boat has a fair bit of build up on it and i don't like sanding antifoul.

[PAR]

Soda works great, but it's not cheap.

[michael pierzga]

Never had Soda blasting ..but sand blasting is the default technique to remove old anti foul and renew.

A pro sandblaster, who specializes in bottom work, is cheaper and more effective than a crew of guys with grinders. A skilled blaster can surgically remove one layer of paint at a time. The cost is very competitive.

[Frosty]

Roller trays are crap , it exposes too much of the paint to atmosphere. A deeper tin with less exposed paint is required something like the Square 5 gallon can that was common at one time, I think cooking oil still comes in them. Dip the roller in and wipe excess up the side of the Square tin
It wont be much hotter there than here so with the above tin you dont mess about and get it on. Its usuall here to add some more TBT at 3%, use more and it gets glutinous and the roller just slides.

Most DIY roll there own paint,-- as for thinning --no, if its thickening your not working fast enough and surely I dont need to mention to put the lid on the can after you remove some.

I use 2 colours and 2 types --hard first followed by a different colour ablative, when your ready for a fouling job the colours of the hard will become exposed.

On the top coats I slide a stick of chalk around so I know where I have been ,--not to forget as many coats as you want on the water line.

If you have a slow speed prop you can paint it, but on the day it comes out of the water giving the paint time to realy harden. If its power boat you are wasiting your time

[michael pierzga]

a two colour paint system is the pro way of applying paint in which film thickness is critical. On a blue bottom, the first coat would be white...then the finish coat would be as many coats of blue necessary to cover the white and make the bottom blue