Sprayable paints....

[TBarCYa]

I have a 17' 1969 Cobia that received new stringers and floor and will be getting paint once all of the fiberglass work is completed. The previous owner painted the outside of the hull with a brush and it looks terrible so I'm planning to sand the old paint off including the bottom paint and paint all surfaces except the floor white.

My first question is what type of paint can be sprayed on as opposed to being brushed or rolled?? I'm pretty good with my sprayer and feel confident that I can do a decent job of it.

My second question is do I need different types of paint for the topsides versus the outside of the hull and do I need to use a special paint below the water line if the boat will not be stored in the water?? In the attached pic, the white (above the green) is what I'm calling topsides and the green is the outside of the hull. I don't know the correct terms for them so i hope this description helps.


Thank you very much for any help.

[yokebutt]

You might want to have a look at awlcraft by US paint, it's supposedly easier to deal with than the regular awlgrip, but then again, do keep in mind that I'm certainly not an expert on paints.

Yokebutt.

[TBarCYa]

I'll definitely check that out. Anything that can be reduced and sprayed is going to be much easier (for me) than brush and roller.

Thanks.

[Eagle Boats]

Tbar, I am sure you don't need to be told this, but use a very good respirator when shooting Awlgrip products.

[cyclops]

It is as bad for your liver and kidneys as it smells. Use the filter they recommend, NOTHING less. Also keep it off of skin and hair- full cheap painters suit, should last the boat job with care. Post the boat when done.

[TBarCYa]

I wasn't aware that Awlgrip was so toxic but I'll definitely take every precaution. Maybe I'll do it in the booth if it's that bad...

[cyclops]

Treat all paints and solvents like cancer juice. Companies change ingredients like underwear. You have to assume it is very bad for you, to stay one jump ahead of their changes. Especially inside of a boat hull, head down. Best in a controlled paint booth.

[TBarCYa]

So basically treat it like I'm painting a car or motorcycle... I was going to do it outside with a respirator and skip the coverall but since I have the booth available, I might as well use it.

Thank you!!

[yokebutt]

Oh, polyurethanes only have a bit of cyanides in them, how bad could that possibly be......

Yokebutt.

[cyclops]

Good point. The only safe paint, is the one that not the smallest speck of, never gets on or in your body.

[Phil Locker]

Always interested in drawing the line of safety vs efficiency of work.

I spray small parts (rudders etc) in a benchtop spraybooth with great airflow. I use a full face supplied air respirator, and wear thick nitrile gloves.

In a year of using the booth (HVLP gun) I haven't yet had to change the throw-away shield on the respirator eye-piece, so I figure there's no need to be wearing tyvek or similar coveralls... enough airflow that all the bad stuff is going out the stack. And I'll confess I frequently don't wear the respirator when mixing paint, as I'm doing it in on the booth benchtop and the airflow is sweeping the solvents away from me. Taking chances?

Also, what are people doing for solvent protection when wiping down parts prior to spraying. I'm wearing the heavy nitrile gloves... good enough?

All comments appreciated.
Phil

[cyclops]

You should make 120 years. Enjoy.