Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Materials
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-12-2008, 05:15 PM
Westerly23 Westerly23 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 10 Posts: 18
Location: Seattle
Solid fuel installation

I’m installing a solid fuel stove I picked up recently. It looks almost new. It was made locally by the Ballard Sheet Metal Co.

I’m doing an install similar to this.
http://marinestove.com/installation_views.htm
Scroll down to #15 (sorry couldn't get a picture to upload).

I’m going to use stainless for the sides and tile ceramic tile for the base.

My question is,
What should I use for the insulation behind the stainless? I was thinking ½ cement board for the base, could I use ½ cement boards with a stainless face for the sides?

I will be leaving a 1” air gap below the base and behind the sides.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-12-2008, 05:45 PM
masalai masalai is offline
masalai
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Rep: 1210 Posts: 6,569
Location: SE Queensland, Australia
Check your insurance cover and other liability first?
__________________
my build progress continues . . . http://boats-n-stuff.com.au/forum/in...topic,2.0.html
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-13-2008, 12:12 AM
TollyWally TollyWally is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Rep: 322 Posts: 690
Location: Fox Island
I just did a stove installation this winter. If you can get 6" or so of air between your stove and the sides of the recess it will make it much easier. I would suggest using wonderboard which is the cement board used as tile backer, probably what you had in mind when you mentioned it.

If you hold the tin sheeting off the wonderboard a 1/2" or so with bolts as spacers you will be golden. I have one of those laser thermometer guns. It will really put your mind at ease after the install. It is also great for monitoring where the heat goes in the boat. You will find it handy for figuring out where to position fans etc. for even heat dispersion.

Depending on your installation you might want to think about overhead heat protection. Again the laser gun will be handy. I used rock wool in the overhead and a double layer of tin spaced 1/2" apart. I also used a piece of stainless stack 1 size bigger than my primary chimney pipe to shield that. I drilled holes in it and used machine bolts to center it. The cheapest place I found for the stainless stack was at SeaMar at Fishermans Terminal. A warm boat is a happy boat on Puget Sound
__________________
If this is tourist season, why can't we shoot them?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-13-2008, 12:45 AM
TeddyDiver TeddyDiver is offline
Teddy
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Rep: 685 Posts: 1,184
Location: Finland
Basicly there are three ways against the heat transfer.
1 adequate air space btw the stowe and roundings to get good ventilation
2 thermal isolation (rockwool, ceramic plates)
3 reflectors (like aluminium folie)
For the best results use combination of all.
I would make smth like this:in the stowe ceramic plates on the sides and bottom. From the stowe 50mm air space, alufolie, 20mm rockwooll and 10mm airspace.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-13-2008, 10:33 AM
Westerly23 Westerly23 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 10 Posts: 18
Location: Seattle
Thanks TollyWolly,

My stove is bulkhead mounted. I was planning to leave a 1" air gap between the bulkhead and the wonderboard/stainless and mounting the stove to that. I'll plan on adding 1/2" of airspace between the wonderboard and stainless too. I'll look into the thermometer guns, great idea.

I'll also think about the overhead. I wasn't too worried, but heat does rise. The rockwool and tin should be pretty easy to install.

They're forcasting 85 degrees on Saturday, the guy's over at SecondWave were telling me it would be summer by the time I got this thing installed.......
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-13-2008, 11:35 AM
Fanie Fanie is offline
Fanie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Rep: 1056 Posts: 3,601
Location: Safrica
Hi Westerly,

Stainless is a very poor conductor of heat, if you heat one end of a pice of stainless up red hot, it's cold just a short distance off.

I would use a few thinnish sheets of stainless steel with gaps in between them. the gaps can be about 12mm, I'm sure the 3rd sheet may become luke-warm.
__________________
Regards
Fanie
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New installation GWB Electrical Systems 3 03-24-2008 12:05 PM
Solid Works V Solid Edge alidesigner Software 11 11-26-2006 09:08 PM
generator installation Wild Bill Electrical Systems 0 02-16-2006 07:53 PM
Knotmeter installation Danny Sailboats 8 05-17-2005 11:34 PM
Regulations covering installation of elec. fuel pump fanefarchris DIY Marinizing 2 04-11-2005 06:24 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:59 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin 3 Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2010 Boat Design Net