Resin choice

Thanks Par!!! Here are the pic's of the stringers in the engine and fuel area. I have also attached a pic of the thickness of the glass from the tab area/bottom hull ( between 12 to 15 mm) and side of the stringer (5 to 8mm). I have removed the stringer on the starboard side fuel stringer and have exposed the foam. There was a very thin layer of glass between it and the ply that was removed when the ply came out but still has a thicken layer attached at the bottom. The planthis week is to epoxy coat the ply for the fuel stringer area and lam. Then mix up some PB to tab the fuel area stringer back to the hull bottom and the foam area (did not plan to replace the thin glass between the ply and foam that was removed

 

When in doubt, use more tabbing. The failures seen in these builds is almost always from lack of material. They save money by using skimpy amounts of resin and fabric. I've seen wooden structures, well covered for 50 years, without an issue. I've also seen rotten structures after only 5 years. The ones that last have more then enough resin and fabric covering and bonding them to the hull shell. The ones that fail, not so much. When you apply your tabbing, you'll know. If it seems like it's not as heavy as it once was, add another layer or two.

The pile of goo under the wooden elements is a standoff, designed to prevent hard spots. Do the same thing, by applying a thickened pile of goo along the landing points on the hull shell. When the wooden elements are installed, make fillets from these or grind them back into easy radiuses, so they fabrics will lay down neatly and to prevent a stress riser on the hull shell.

 

I will follow the concept of "when in doubt add more" just looking for a starting point so I will know when I get close enough so I do not go crazy and lay 15 layers ....LOL. If i shoot for the same thickness in the tab area, i will be lost after the first few are on........since I am not sure how strong 3 or 4 will be compared to the MFG thickness.......looks like 2 layers of mat, one woven heavy, then two layers of mat for the side and top of the stringer......not sure about the tab since i cut the glass about two inches high then ground down.

Plan to tab with 3 or 4 layers staggered of 1700 tape then add 3 layers to the sides over lapping the tab and over the top to give me 6 on top for this 28 footer..........good bad?

 

Sounds pretty close, but you're the judge when it's down and rolled out. Go with 4 layers.

 

Would it be wise to set the ply in PL and then create the fillets from epoxy or just use the epoxy.........just trying to save a little. Thanks for the help!!

 

It'll work either way.

 

Question, is there a max stringer/hull gap? The old one had about a 1/2 to 3/4 or 1 inch gap........seems really much to be filling in with PB?

 

The gap can be an arbitrary thing. To save material, use 1/4" to 1/2" and call it a day.

 

VE needs air to cure?

 

Polyester doesn't stick to epoxy very well, how does polyester stick to vinylester?
......................
(A newer boat with problems of rot is another issue...)

 

Thanks Par!!

 

If its made from vinylester use the same resin !!!! logical ? :idea:
sure as hell wouldnt use polyester !!!!

 

I wouldn't agree in the use of "the same resin" as logical. Vinylester is about the same price as epoxy and more difficult for the novice to get good results with, compared to epoxy, plus epoxy is stronger and bonds better.

 

Have most of the stringers set and the last two will be set soon and hope to post pics Question about the epoxy layup using 1700. How many layers of cloth can I apply in a single coat. Have been told to lay 2 layers of cloth then wetout........then another said to only lay one wet, let tack and apply the next, let tack apply and so on? I used West to lam and fillet with.......many use West for the cloth or may switch to USComp.

 

2 layers of fabric is safe, both can go down at the same time, though wet out is difficult with two layers of 17 ounce biax, which is possably why someone told you to do one at a time. An experienced laminator will do two at a time, but a novice might be best advised to do one at a time.