Raka Epoxy

[kyle@raka.com]

Pierre, that is a great test that an independant person did with our material. I will say that in the test the few complaints that he had back then, like the extremly slow curing time, have been fixed to speed up enough to give you about 25-30min potlife with sandability in approx 24hrs.
We are currently working on a new type of non blush with a longer potlife and even more clarity. The picture of that sample was on a previous post in this thread.
Kyle
Raka, Inc

[CatBuilder]

Seriously. That link was fantastic. Thanks, Pierre.

Speaking to Kyle's post, I'm actually thinking your pot life and cure time seem appropriate for warm temps like those I'll have in FL. The tester was up in New England, where I am now.

In my case, I'm looking at two very different types of epoxy applications:

1) Small pieces like rudders, etc - With these, I want a faster time to set up (but not to cure), so I can get another layer on there quickly. Seems like I would just use a faster Raka hardener.

2) Glassing the hulls - In this case, I need an epoxy that will give me time to work large areas without being rushed, so what the tester calls long curing times and dislikes is actually just perfect for my hulls.

All in all, the more I'm learning, the better Raka is looking. I especially like the tester's results concerning blush. I have enough to do without having to wash/scour off amine blush. To me, non-blushing characteristics are great.

Lastly, the tester mentions that epoxies that blush are stiffer/harder and more brittle. Sounds like a win/win to have a slightly softer epoxy that still works to hold the boat together and also doesn't blush on application.

I'm having a hard time finding reasons *not* to just go with Raka.

[Ilan Voyager]

I have used only the Raka resins for wood ( the 127 with the fast and very slow hardener) with excellent success in Quintana Roo with 70-90% humidity.

Easy to use, thin enough, very tolerant mix ratio (I mean that the ratio volumes do not need to be exact at 0.5%), minimal blushing and very easy to sand as the Raka resin do not clog the paper when well cured. Those who had to sand a "cloggy" resin will understand me... I'll add an oustanding UV resistance and shelf life. I have a gallon left from a big buy made in 1997 and it cures even now after 13 years for small no-structural works.

Mechanically, the resin is strong enough, and has an elogation of about 5% so no micro-fissuring the plague of the too rigid resins. I did several tests before using it, and it's a god one. The older boat made with this resin is 12 years old and none problem.

The maple flour is one of the best fillers I've used for gluing and filleting. Very cheap also.

No, Larry has not paid me...but when you have a good product at fair price is worth to say it.

I almost forgotten; always dry the fibers in a oven before use (easy to make, it's only 60-70 celsius degrees) and keep them closed in a bag. The surface treatment of glass cloth like the silanne absorb humidity and it's one of the causes of poor adhesion. I confirm that polyester never glues on epoxy as epoxy inhibits the curing of polyester. But Epoxy glues very well on fully CURED polyester. On epoxy you must use an epoxy gel coat or other finish systems.

Like Richard I'm very happy that a resin formulator comes in a forum to discuss about his products.

[kyle@raka.com]

Ilan thanks for the feed back happy to hear you like our stuff and its still holding strong after 12 years.