Perfection Plus Part B Is Killing My Budget

Perfection Plus two part clear polyurethane "varnish" is a tough, rather elastic coating and is working really well for me.

It comes in a one quart package, to be mixed 2:1 by volume. Part B, the "hardener" comes in a re-closeable can with a screw top. When coating small parts, I often use small amounts and always re-close the containers promptly. However, the Part B goes off, turning solid in its container if I try to store it for three or four weeks while working on other projects.

Part B is only offered in combination with Part A. At $85-$105 per quart. I now have surplus Part A and no Part B; tough to face discarding the unused Part A.

Anybody know how to source more Part B alone? Anybody know how to store opened Part B without it going off? (I've tried other closed containers, storing it in the dark and "Bloxygen" air displacement. Neither had any discernible effect.

Is this an oxygen "cure"? A UV "cure"? A moisture "cure"? I can't find out what triggers the stuff to go off. The mfg. site offers no information on point.

I'd hate to give up a really good product because (a) it's really expensive to begin with, but - barely - worth it; and (b) it's much too expensive when half or even more of the quart is lost and unusable because Part B can't be stored after opening.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Try filling a partially filled Part B with an inert gas, eg Carbon Dioxide, even Propane.

This is a common cure for partially used 2 part paints.

You can make CO2 by burning a candle in a large container, or using dry ice ( not near Part B of course ).

If you then have a hose from the bottom of the container, the CO2 will displace any air in the top of the can.

 

Buy West system. It is not near that expensive.

Have you called the manufacturer directly?

 

Always a problem. Resealing the can of hardener.

Same with a tube of 5200 adhesive.

This is why 2 part paints are expensive to use for small jobs. Ive throw away more paint than I have actually spread on a surface. .

With a can I do not open the lid of the part B. Instead I poke 2 small holes ,with a nail, thru the lid. Pour the small quantity out into a cup then wipe the lid clean and place a piece of vinyl electical tape over the small holes. I can make the hardener last a long time.



A srcew top works the same. puncture the metal lid under the cap with a nail....be clean, wipe the hardener off the screw top and re close.

 

Take any heavier than air gas you have in the shop and flood the can, before slamming the lid closed. I use whatever is handy, argon, acetylene, MAPP, propane, nitrogen, etc. Very commonly, I'll have the MAPP gas torch handy and I'll hold the lid over the can, while I pump in MAPP, straight from the canister, for several seconds. This displaces the air and it's moisture. I've opened cans sealed like this after a year, with no skin inside the can.

 

This is a great advice, PAR!

 

I just opened cans of LPU today, which had been sealed with MAPP gas about 18 months ago. Yep, just fine, though a little MAPP gas smell. I blatantly stole this trick from someone else, so long ago, that I can't remember who it was. They were an old fart and also used plastic food wrap on the lid, when they pounded it closed. Both tricks work well.