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#1
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| Painting On Old Fiberglass (1956 Lone Star) SURE HOPE SOMEONE CAN HELP! 1956 LONE STAR DID THEY USE ENAMEL OR LAQUER PAINTS? NOW WOULD IT BE SAFE TO SAY IF I SANDED WELL AND FIRST USED AN ADHESHION PROMOTER...THEN A SANDABLE PRIMER RESANDED RE PRIMED WITH A SMOOTH PRIMER WOULD IT BE SAFE TOO TOP OFF WITH AN ACRYLIC LAQUER (ABOVE WATER LINE STUFF LIKE DASH BOARD AND WINDOW AREAS)EVEN THOUGH THERE FIRST WAS AN ENAMEL COAT? ALSO ANY TIPS OR TRICKS ON GETTING BRIGHT RED METAL FLAKE TO STAY BRIGHT (NO FADING) BECAUSE WE WOULD REALLY LIKE TOO ADD 2 STRIPES OF RED ALONG THE SIDES. P.S. THEY SURE DONT MAKE THE DEEP V's LIKE THESE OLD LONE STARS ANYMORE DO THEY? THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP!!!!!!! |
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#2
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| Jeez mate, turn off the caps already, my ear-balls are hurting. As for getting the paint to stick to old fiberglass, just sand away 'til you get to fresh material, then start re-applying what you want, as for applying flake and other gay-ass stuff, cain't help you there mate. Yoke. Last edited by yokebutt : 06-28-2005 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Needed to degrade spelling for effect. |
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#3
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| P.S. You're quite right about hull designs, in spite of incredible (sic) developments in CFD and decades of refinement in towing-tanks, nobody knows how to make a good planing hull nowadays. Insincerely, Yoke. |
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#4
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| as for metal flake airbrushing put a marble in your cup stirring the flakes while airbrushing with a bigger nozzle. than apply a dozen layers of sun resistant varnish or resin after sandpapering the metal flakes down inbetween. stick-on stripes in all sorts can also be found at autoshops, if you do it right this stuff can really look good ![]() |
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