On to Paint!

thanks bntii, i understand what your saying...

And cheers silver raven, if you can teach me to spray, thats great!

one thing tho, i dont understand this - "High Build does not have the surface characteristics for a thin film topcoat such as the two pack lp paints."

See most of my panels are very fair as they were layed up on a melamine table mold. What i need to do on many panels, is simply remove the peel ply and then do whatever to get teh paint on. - I figured high build could go straight on the removed peel ply or would i need to fill the peel ply texture with epoxy bog first? These are all internal panels...

The external panels, wont have peel ply on the outer surface, they will have the melamine surface inprinted on them and are smooth to touch. Perhaps there is an intermediary type of paint that is a 1 shot undercoat before teh topcoat for these?

 

World-wide web site

Gooday 'bntii' - Nice & comprehensive answer. Any/all of these - highly technical discussions - are IMHO - very difficult to carry-out - in these world-wide 'forums'. Instructions - of such an important & very expensive nature are by their very nature - needing to be extremely 'case specific' again IMHO.

Awlgrip is available out here in OZ & I've used it quite a bit over the last number of years - all said & done - it's not a bad - PU - 2 pack.

The other systems are - in the most - available - here in Far North Qld - OZ - so I'm sure he'll be able to find a supplier to satisfy his requirements at the 'top-shelf' level.

Again - 'Groper' - give me a PM & we'll talk. I've already spoken to Kevin @ Cairns Coatings - this morning & you'll be very hard pressed to go past their survace & price. I M H O ! ! I've used their services for many years now & never been let down. Speaks volumes for their quality of business attitude. Ciao, james

 

Hi Groper
A reasonable outcome for me has been Jotacote inside, Jotun outside over Wattyl high build/ primer . 240 grit finish is heaps good enough.
ps Jotacote gives a finish similar to flowcoat but hides a multitude of sins , great for inside lockers, wet areas etc .
You have probably opened a hornets nest with your question everyone has a favourite system.
Cheers Al
.

 

Well i looked around today and ended up buying some wattyl UC230 - 2 pot, epoxy high build undercoat. It says its good above and below the waterline, and the sales rep reckons i can go straight over it with 2 pot polyurethane for the topsides....

This is what i was looking for - an undercoat, sand it flat then give it the finish coat... too easy...

 

This has been an interesting thread so far... I am closing in on the fairing stage of my F-22 and I have been thinking that a bright yellow hull with white kiwi grip would look pretty decent (think duplo brick yellow, a fellow builder in Norway did something similar: http://f22r.blogspot.com/), do any of you have experience with either the stock yellows (ex: awl grip federal yellow) or having had some mixed? I asked what he used and it was something specific to nirthern europe so no luck there. The price for the awl grip yellow looked to be about twice that of the whites, I'm not looking to cheap out and have to redo it in two years, but if I can keep things reasonable as possible that would be good for the pocketbook, especially with all the hardware that comes shortly after. One part urethane looked like they were more or less the same price for any color, from the fisheries supply catalog.

My plan is to end do all the fairing with epoxy bog (West system, micro balloons, microspheres, a hint of colloidal silica) until I'm confident I won't need to touch a long board to it, put a skim coat of neat epoxy on to fill any pinholes, then sand that down to whatever the paint system I choose' low build primer says to sand to, then do the top coats per the paint system. Does this sound like a reasonable approach?

I am not looking for any fancy effects or anything, mostly the color just to differentiate it from production boats (and a little extra visibility never hurt). One last question, I am going to roll and tip since I don't have the equipment or location for a spray job, what's the best brush money can buy for a roll and tip job? I have a bunch of slim foam rollers, I'm assuming that those are less critical so long as they aren't fuzzy?

Thanks,
Andy
F-22 #135 "Dart"

 

It depends on the paint used, but please do use double rounded foam rollers, these featheredge the paint on the side, so it blends in the paint of the previous stroke.

I have had a yellow boat. First painted it light grey, to cover the patchy colours it was previously, only then added the yellow. Yellow does not cover well, so at least I got an even colour all over.

 

I use car paint rather than awlgrip on my own boats (we use awlgrip on customers boats) You can select from an almost unlimited pallette of colors, you cans see what it looks like on a large object,ie, a car rather than trying to pick from silly little paint cards and you can have it mixed locally when you need it, save the color code and you can have it mixed locally for repairs at any time. If you do all the prep work you should be able to hire a spray painter for just the spray job for a reasonable cost, there are plenty of people around that are experienced with car paints.
My son is prepping the deck of his boat right now ,(a 24ft sailboat which i designed and built in 1987) for it first new paint in 25yrs, it was originally painted with car paint and has no peeling, flaking, bubbling, nothing, its just dull, i dont think its ever been waxed. We did the hull a couple of years ago with Nason Fullthane, a 2 part Acrylic urethane (same chemistry as Awlcraft 2000) in the original VW tornado red and the original pain was in great shape, just dull and had a few scrapes and dings.
When i had my Macgregor 36 cat we used awlcraft cream for the decks and PPG concept for the hull, in Audi TT papaya orange.

Steve.

 

I had thought that the brush part of the roll and tip took care of feathering the roller strokes, and that the rollers were just to apply an even amount of paint? Or is the brush insufficient to make up for the roller edges?

Edit: can you recommend any brand/models of that type of roller?

 

Rolling sometimes drops a 'worm' of paint along the edge of the roller, especially if the roller is carrying too much paint.
Once you have a bit of heavy paint along the edges, it takes a second to roll them out to get a even paint film on the surface. This takes time and can cost you some of the scant window where the paint will self level after you tip the surface.