Odd question about fibreglass

[Leon01323]

Hey guys

me again with yet another weird question im sorry and hope you guys dont mind helping. Ive been asked to make a horse feeder out of fibreglass well a mould first and then the feeder, Its basically i big drum with holes in the side that will hold hay in it. The out side will be gel coated from the moulding process.

My true question is: once its fully cured will this be ok to contain hay for horses to eat out of or will it poison the hay and harm the horses, would i need to paint the inside as well or would it be fine as it is?

I know its an odd question but i know you guys know what your talking about and trust your input.

Thanks alot

[Ike]

No. If you use an epoxy resin it will be just fine and not harm your horses at all.

[PAR]

Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just use the PVC or galvanized steel feeders that are commercially available?

[War Whoop]

There are FDA approved resin systems.

[glasser]

as long as the thing is dry and not holding water shouldn't have a problem with it but things that have water in them need be made of a potable resin

[Leon01323]

Hey guys thanks for the replies.

At the moment im using polyester resin to make my pieces would that also be ok or would it have to be epoxy?

to buy a feeder here is around £250 for the similar size i would be making. I figure it wont cost more than £80 max maybe.

when you say as long as its dry? it will have a lid on but some rain may get in would that then turn bad if sat on the fibreglass and become harmful?

ive spoken to my supplier today and he said that along as i top coat the interior of the piece where the fibreglass would of been left bare then it will be fine.

Thanks guys

[glasser]

feeder when working with fiberglass resins is a few things is good to know about how things work like your gelcoting the mold then laying in the fiberglass to make the parts this is good for lots reasons you can make one and make more molds for mini production line building then other is because your working with foods for animal or people is good buy pre waxd resins you have a 72 hour window to apply the inner coating on the part before you separate it fum the mold this leave you the one thin grind egad of the part to apply some gel cote to for food safety is beater be safe make a better product and make all work better other thing you may need look at is the openings of it as they may need bit more support like a steel ring to fit the shape. you lay in the wet fiberglass just one thing to take a look at

[Leon01323]

sounds good. basically what ill be doing is using an original piece to make the mould so that means when im doing the process the mould surface will be the outer surface of the feeder leaving the inside bare cured fibreglass which i will then paint over with top coat gel coat that will then leave me with a nice white surface on the outside and the inside.

when shall i apply that top coat though? do it once the resin has fully cured or once ive finished laying up my mat, shall i let it go tacky and then apply the gel coat?

do i have to use gel coat top coat or could i just paint the inside?

Thanks

[ondarvr]

Gel coat will stick very well with no prep work...paint...well it depends on how long you wait and how much prep you do, and the exact paint as to how well it sticks.

You can apply the gel coat as soon as the resin gels to the point of not bleeding into the gel coat. Or you can wait for a day or so, its not going to make much of a difference.

[glasser]

you should give it little time to finish hardening
2 hours is plenty time for it

[glasser]

in mold making is some things need no your plug in your case the part your using to make the mold frum you need to treat this like is going be a finish itom no scratch marks or flaws on it as this is going be on every new part you make forum it when you have it as perfect as can be use a good mold release wax and give it 2 cotes a day for a min 4 to 6 cotes then when you spray or brush the molds serfice gel cote on its going to releases better .. have have made lots of dif types of molds over the years frum race boats to industrial things layup for molds shooed be in steps to achieve a better mold
step one give it a 1 mat skin layer let the skin hardin at lest 2 days before aplying more layers of mat only shood add at lest 2 more mat layers on top the skin then let it sit a gen for 2 days now you can add some reinforcement layers of roving if you going be adding frames to it for holding it up don't place the wood agents the new serves this is going to in time make print transfer parts will start to show the spots of the frames use some supports to hold the frames just a inch or so away forum it and glass up both sides so the glassing can be pushed together in the air space between the mold and frame after its all done let it sit for a good 4 or 5 days to fully cur out the styrene in the resin the first time use is the most inportent one you shood mold wax it 2 or 3 times day for 5 or 6 cots then if you look after it and do fast waxwings 1 between parts you will never have troubles relenting parts

[Leon01323]

Thanks alot guys once again really helpful info from everyone.

Ive costed up and to mould the whole thing it would be around £82 pounds well thats the best price i could work out without actually building one and said i would sell it to this lady for £180 but that is probs too expensive.

The next plan is to make a the base and top out of ply wood with vertical wooden supports. Make flat sheets of fibreglass maybe 2 layers thick bend and form them round the wooden piece so the whole thing is round and screw them in, then fibreglass on top of it to the desired thickness then inside will have original gel coat where its more import its a good coat and then i can paint the out side with top coat in what ever colour they wanted.

should make it a fair bit cheaper and easier its just not a moulding method.

what do you think

Thanks