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  #16  
Old 05-23-2011, 06:34 PM
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PAR PAR is online now
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Sounds like a"chip off the old block" . . .
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2011, 11:31 PM
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I used some six10 today to hold things down. The stuff worked great but I only needed half the tube. 1/2 hour later I had a need for a little more and the tube was seized.Stuff is rock solid.
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  #18  
Old 05-24-2011, 04:13 AM
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It's possible only the tip is locked up. Remove the mixing tip and use another one, when you need more goo. How much was the tube and how many ounces? $20 for a 10 ounce cartridge is painful, if you have a lot of work, but for your application, just the ticket.
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2011, 06:09 AM
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yes welcome to the forum Ben
nice of you to join us

cheers
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  #20  
Old 05-24-2011, 06:51 AM
Steve W Steve W is offline
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It looks like im a little late finding this thread but i have a little trick i learned from Malcolm Tennant many years ago that works well for situations such as this that some may find useful. You make up a brew of epoxy with slow hardner and then mix in styrofoam bean bag bubbles which can be bought at craft stores. It extends the hell out of the epoxy without much weight. We used it to fill hollow daggerboard and rudder blades which are laid up in sheetmetal molds.
Steve.
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  #21  
Old 05-24-2011, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAR View Post
It's possible only the tip is locked up. Remove the mixing tip and use another one, when you need more goo. How much was the tube and how many ounces? $20 for a 10 ounce cartridge is painful, if you have a lot of work, but for your application, just the ticket.
I removed the tip and was going to put the goo into a cup to mix what was left,the epoxy was nice and wet at the tip but the plunger wouldn't move.Great product,I would just rather have used two tubes half the size.
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  #22  
Old 05-24-2011, 01:09 PM
BPGougeon BPGougeon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaporvette View Post
I used some six10 today to hold things down. The stuff worked great but I only needed half the tube. 1/2 hour later I had a need for a little more and the tube was seized.Stuff is rock solid.
All the six10 is dispensed when the plunger reaches the halfway piont. If you look at the label it will say "tube is empty when plunger reaches this line". There is no way to get around this and still be able to put a two part system into a tube, because the mechanics required take up space. We've had complaints about the tube being "half full" but the only way to get more epoxy in is to increase the tube size, then you'd need a special gun. Its definately more expensive this way but for some jobs the ease of use makes up for it.
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  #23  
Old 05-24-2011, 04:21 PM
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Vulkyn Vulkyn is offline
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Originally Posted by BPGougeon View Post
Hello,

Just to be upfront, I do want to say that I work for WEST SYSTEM. That said, we have an excellent solution to your problem: Six10. Six10 is a two part prethickened epoxy that comes in a standard size caulk tube that will fit in any ordinary caulk gun. This product comes out of the tube pre-measured, pre-thickened and pre-mixed. Six10 sells for about $20. You can learn more at www.westsystem.com under specialty epoxies. If you need assistance please call our tech staff toll free at 866-937-8797.

Good Luck,

Ben Gougeon
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  #24  
Old 06-05-2011, 09:10 AM
luke.keough luke.keough is offline
 
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hi im new im replacing the transom on my boat and i have to find out which apoxi to use to coat and waterprof the new ply ive looked at sp106 but cant find out if its water tight
any ideas
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  #25  
Old 06-05-2011, 05:33 PM
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All marine grade epoxies are waterproof. It would be best if you used the search tool and went through the hundreds of previous of threads on this and related topics. Not only do you coat the plywood, but it's also glued and "tabbed" into the existing hull shell.
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  #26  
Old 06-06-2011, 06:40 AM
BPGougeon BPGougeon is offline
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Hi Luke.Keough, Contact Wessex Resins - they'll hook you up with whatever you need. Tell then the Gougeon Brothers sent you!

http://www.wessex-resins.com/
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  #27  
Old 06-12-2011, 05:24 PM
luke.keough luke.keough is offline
 
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thanks for the link gougeon was a useful site. and thank you too par
it was just that it was a general one i was shown in norfolk marine here in uk
was only £25ltr im on a budget but that just seamed too cheap.
shop guy didnt seam to no much about it recond it would cover 2 sheats of 4x2 ply but also said id only need one coat but from reserch ive been doing and what ive been told id need 3 coats at least
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  #28  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:36 PM
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philSweet philSweet is offline
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This should be tabbed in place for a batt box. Then you could use polyester if you do the prep right, but epoxy is better.
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  #29  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:30 PM
luke.keough luke.keough is offline
 
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im sorry but what is tabbed in place and batt box im to new for the tec talk lol
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  #30  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:19 PM
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Tabbing is the process of bonding items, structural or other wise to the hull shell or portions of the boat. In involves fabrics that overlap both elements and when cured the two essentially become one. The "batt" box is a battery box and it should be "hard fastened" to the boat, of which tabbing is one method. I prefer to have the option of removing a battery box when necessary, if for no other reason then a handy battery caddy that keeps the acid off your cloths. They can be strapped down, screwed or bolted down, glued or physically tabbed to the boat. The one thing you don't want is a loose battery, as just a small group 24 is 35 to 40 pounds, which can do a lot of damage if it's pitched around in a rough patch of sea. This is the weight of a 8x16 concrete building block and can easily hole a boat or stuff in someone's head it it gets loose.
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