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#1
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| carbon fiber lay out Hi there, Is there anyone out there that can give me advice on laying up a carbon fibre canoe paddle blade. This is a flatish single canoe blade and not a double kayak blade. Also... because carbon fibre is hard to get...am I able to make a fibreglass blade that is stiff (next to no flex) and lite..ish? Blade is around 10 inches wide and 16 inches long. Shaft will be made of wood. I have made a mould but have no idea on the lay up. Any assistance would be much appreciated. |
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#2
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| That's a big question Paddler. Are you going to use a resin infusion process or a vacuum bagging process? There are minor differences in each process. CF paddle will be lighter stiffer and stronger than F/G. To make up for the loss of those properties the F/G blade will have to be thicker and it'll be heavier. How did you build the mold for the blade? A good mold is essential to producing a good CF part. Mold preperation is also key, waxing properly then applying a semi-permanent or permant mold release. I guess before we can finish answering your question you'll have to decide on how you want to complete the part. F/G or CF? Vaccum bagging or Resin Infusion. Or I guess you can do it without those processes and create a clamp system for your part. It'd be a lot better to see your mold and tell us how you made it then we can try to help you out. Rick
__________________ Yours Aye! Rick M/V She:Kon Blog ~^~^~^^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~~^~^~~^~^~^^~~^~^ "It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it and cried beside it!" - I just made that up! |
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#3
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| Hi Rick, I made a plug and took the plug to a professional mould maker. The mould is in 2 pieces and is very sturdy and each part has a wooden frame. I would like to vacume bag and to try both carbon fibre and fibreglass if possible. I want to experiment with the fibreglass designs and when I get it right I will go to carbon fiber. I do not want to mass produce. I just would dearly love to paddle with something that I have designed and caters to my style of paddling. I have purchased all of the Fibreglast dvd series so have an idea on how to prep the mould. just no idea on how many layers, what sort of material and where to start really. I would like to have an understanding on what makes a paddle blade stiff and light. I got the mould maker to make me the first blade in carbon fibre and it flexed wat too much. Any assistance would be appreciated. |
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#4
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| I was at a kayak expo a few months back. All of there composite paddles used very thin balsa as a core. The tips of each paddle were flexible, and coreless. The last 4 inches of the paddle flexed about a 1/2". |
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#5
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| I shouldn't think you'd want to have the thing totally rigid. Remember that the flexion isn't merely wasting energy, it's also storing it. |
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#6
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| I am wanting to do away with any flex. Unfortunatley the stored flex that you talk about, unleashes at the end of the stroke and cupped flrex tends to store water, which is unwanted weight. That is intersting about the thin balsa wood. would that be endgrain or just plain balsa? Thank you for that.:-) Maybe I could also use some sort of core to get closer to the edge. I will give that some thought. :-) As for what resin to use. I see alot of paddles are made of vinyl ester(I think). What are the experts thoughts on what resin would be best suited to a canoe paddle. Also some advice on the layers and materials would be great. Cheers guys |
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#7
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| Quote:
There is also a plain weave carbon that looks like a checkerboard pattern. Very large, flat tows. May also help you with your flex proplem. Jamestown distributors carrys it. Heres a picture of it. Thats 2x2 5.7oz on the right, and 0/90 12k 6oz checkerboard on the left: ![]() |
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#8
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| Thank you JRL, That is awsome information. I will work on those gems that you have shared with me. I owe you big time, Thanks heaps mate :-) Daniel |
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#9
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| No problem. Look up Porcher Industries (Basically BGF, but in Europe). They carry the flat tow stuff cheap! |
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#10
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| Wow, I will search them out. Thanks for that :-) |
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