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#16
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| Spruce is a great structural material, and it takes nails very well as anyone who has framed a house or repaired a fence would know. My local lumberyard will let me rummage for the good stuff as they are familiar with my deviant behaviour of building canoes, and there is another yard only an hour away that I've heard good thing about and has lots of air-dried stock. I will visit it come Spring. In the meantime I will make and break some test samples with spruce, poplar, and maybe oak and fir too, as I like the security of test data over book data. I very rarely use fasteners so holding problems don't exist for me so long as the wood takes glue. Thanks for the advise!
__________________ "Boats are like rabbits; you can have one boat or many, but you can't stop at two" - A. Onassis Boat designs: "a convoluted collection of discontinuous compromise" - Par ". . . ere the end, some work of noble note, may yet be done . . ." -Tennyson Dances with Turkeys |
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#17
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#18
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#19
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| Thanks for all the collective knowledge you guys had in this old post regarding Hickory etc. I am also thinking of using hickory, for the gunwales of a traditional aleutian skin on frame sea kayak. What made me think of using that wood is simply this: or several hundred years, Hickory was the wood of choice for Nordic skis. A similar situation to a kayak, where springiness is highly desireable, and the wood is put in a wet environment for a day, then dried out again, over and over for years. I suspect I'll maybe have to treat this hickory with something and also coat it in epoxy...the bases of hickory skis were traditionally impregnated with pine tar.... But the memory of the springiness of hickory in my old cross country skis gives me hope that such an experiment might turn out well. If not, I can always replace them. Wish me luck. I'll let you know. |
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#20
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| Hi guy's, new member here...I felt that I should chine in on this subject lol. The traditional wood used for chines, come's from the ELM tree. |
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#21
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| Elm has great resistance to rot when permanently wet. It was formerly used for pier pilings below low water level and for buried water pipes. It's also fine when kept dry, but it rots when exposed to both air and water. It has a complicated interlocking grain and the built-in stresses are likely to cause cracking and twisting in small pieces but it is ok in very large logs. I can't see it is a good candidate for chine logs especially in a boat that is dried out, but it maybe OK under the waterline if you are re-creating a large sailing ship with heavy timbers and continuously wet bilges. That is probably the traditional use you were referring to.
__________________ "Boats are like rabbits; you can have one boat or many, but you can't stop at two" - A. Onassis Boat designs: "a convoluted collection of discontinuous compromise" - Par ". . . ere the end, some work of noble note, may yet be done . . ." -Tennyson Dances with Turkeys |
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#22
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| You beat me to it Terry . . . |
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