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#1
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| Any luck with powder coating? Has anyone on this forum used powder coating, either below the water line or above? Seems to have a number of advantages over paint, but I'm curious about its performance in a marine environment. How does it compare to galvanizing and linear urethane in terms of wear and cost? Thanks, Scott |
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#2
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| We offer white powdercoating as a finish on exhaust systems we fabricate. There have not been any problems with the finish. Of course, this is in the engine room and not as exposed as it would be to the elements as if it were sitting on the deck somewhere. Attached is a picture of a powder coated elbow. I hope this helps.
__________________ JORGE LANG DEANGELO MARINE EXHAUST |
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#3
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| Thanks for the reply, that's a good-looking part! I was talking about the outside of the boat, you're right. The benefits of powder coating on parts like you produce are so well known, I'm kind of surprised I don't see it more on other parts of the boat. I think most outboards and out-drives come powder coated from the factory though, which may answer my own question (perhaps someone can confirm this). Scott |
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#4
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| This thread is a bit old, but if you're still interested.... Take a look at the larger center console boats down in Florida. A number of them are using powder coating for T-tops. Also look to the custom fabricators of T-tops, railings... http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/0/4/34778204.htm The key to exterior duability in a powder coating is to look for an acrylic-based resin binder. Some polyester based powder paints are good outside, but acrylic is typically the best. Acrylic powders have been used on automobile wheel covers and under the hood parts for a number of years. Road salt should be a reasonable test for holding up to saltwater exposure (actually an extended salt-spray test is one of the criteria that is used in selecting coating materials for the auto industry). |
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#5
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| powder coating We use powder coating above and below the waterline. Almost everything is two-coated though using an epoxy primer and a marine grade color topcoat after a chemical treatment to improve adhesion. (Acrylics have excellent weatherability but don't have the chip resistance of polyesters.) We've done T-tops, leaning posts, rails, rub rails, ladders and brackets of all kinds. We're using a Dupont non-stick on props. (This is the black stuff found on frying pans.) It is in the experimental stage but we're hoping to make it tough for marine organisms to hang on. This stuff is also very abrasion and corrosion resistant. We're also using anti-microbial coatings on shafts, trim-tabs and struts. This is also experimental but it suppresses the growth of bacteria, algae, fungus, mold, and mildew in many other applications. |
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