Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Wiki (beta)  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors  |  Sitemap

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Materials
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-04-2006, 05:22 AM
Jack Staff's Avatar
Jack Staff Jack Staff is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Rep: 10 Posts: 13
Location: Berlin
Alternative to Red Cedar?

Hi all

was just wondering if you could also use norway spruce for the strip planking method? Normally it's being done with Western Red Cedar but that's quite expensive over here in Europe. Now common spruce is almost similar in wight, density ease to work on etc. and it's way cheaper. The reason why it wasn't used for boat building in the past is that it's not very rot-resistant. Actually hardly at all. However with the epoxy coating strip plank method that would be of little concern.

What do you think?

Jack
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-04-2006, 07:02 AM
Raggi_Thor's Avatar
Raggi_Thor Raggi_Thor is online now
Nav.arch/Designer/Builder
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Rep: 302 Posts: 2,318
Location: Trondheim, NORWAY
We use Norwegian spruce and pine (pinus sylvestris). It's a bit heavier than cedar, but also stronger and stiffer. Light pine can be the same weight as spruce.
__________________
Regards, Kvedja, mvh,
Ragnar Thor Mikkelsen
www.MBOATS.no
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-04-2006, 07:26 AM
Jack Staff's Avatar
Jack Staff Jack Staff is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Rep: 10 Posts: 13
Location: Berlin
Yes, Pinus Sylvestris sounds fine too. Basically we have spruce, pine and fir over here. Fir would be a bit more expensive again but Spruce and Pine are really plentiful and rather cheap. Probably even cheaper from Russia or Scandinavia.

There are differences in the natural resin content though, would that be a problem?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-04-2006, 08:19 AM
Crag Cay Crag Cay is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Rep: 89 Posts: 445
Location: England
If you are not looking for the lightest possible structure, then Siberian Larch has been used successfully.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-04-2006, 09:05 AM
Raggi_Thor's Avatar
Raggi_Thor Raggi_Thor is online now
Nav.arch/Designer/Builder
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Rep: 302 Posts: 2,318
Location: Trondheim, NORWAY
I think pine is very easy to work with, it feels a bit softer than spruce.
Then spruce is normally lighter and stiffer (for the weight), it's popular for spars for example.
Larch is quite expensive here, but more durable.

I think the quality of the wood is more important than species.
Straight grained and knot free strips will bend smothly and evenly.
__________________
Regards, Kvedja, mvh,
Ragnar Thor Mikkelsen
www.MBOATS.no
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-04-2006, 10:15 AM
Jack Staff's Avatar
Jack Staff Jack Staff is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Rep: 10 Posts: 13
Location: Berlin
Well I suppose that answered my question, thanks a lot!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-04-2006, 05:46 PM
catmando2's Avatar
catmando2 catmando2 is offline
Malaysia bound....soon
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Rep: 38 Posts: 167
Location: Australia
Don't know if you could get it over there, but we are using a lot of Kiri now, lighter than cedar, very rot resistant and nice to work with.

Dave

http://www.highpointtimber.com.au/
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-04-2006, 10:44 PM
LP's Avatar
LP LP is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Rep: 50 Posts: 375
Location: Almost Maine
Another line of thinking would be to look at what types of wood are used for exterior construction, in your area, that are usually left untreated. What type of woods are used to build (board)fences or to side houses. That might lead you to a rot resistant variety in your area of the world. I believe that you are right in being able to use a less rot resistant variety with epoxy encapsulation. If you can track down a rot resistant wood in your neck-o-the-woods, at a reasonable price and use the epoxy methods, you'll have the best of both worlds.
__________________
LP
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-14-2006, 01:01 AM
catmando2's Avatar
catmando2 catmando2 is offline
Malaysia bound....soon
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Rep: 38 Posts: 167
Location: Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by LP View Post
Another line of thinking would be to look at what types of wood are used for exterior construction, in your area, that are usually left untreated. What type of woods are used to build (board)fences or to side houses. That might lead you to a rot resistant variety in your area of the world. I believe that you are right in being able to use a less rot resistant variety with epoxy encapsulation. If you can track down a rot resistant wood in your neck-o-the-woods, at a reasonable price and use the epoxy methods, you'll have the best of both worlds.

Shit pine with cuprous oxide, no thanks

Like end grain balsa?? double no thanks, that stuff rot's like newspaper

Dave
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to tell white oak from red???? Porkchunker Wooden Boat Building and Restoration 7 06-10-2006 01:46 PM
2 quarts of Camano Red from System Three JEM Marketplace 0 05-10-2005 11:11 AM
Western Red Cedar winni Materials 2 09-05-2004 09:39 AM
Western Red Cedar, fir for sale. Long and some big. alteran Marketplace 2 04-08-2004 02:11 AM
Custom saw milling - western red cedar et al dirtybeard Marketplace 0 07-11-2003 10:30 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:47 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin 3 Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2009 Boat Design Net