Alternative to Red Cedar?

Hi all

was just wondering if you could also use norway spruce for the strip planking method? Normally it's being done with Western Red Cedar but that's quite expensive over here in Europe. Now common spruce is almost similar in wight, density ease to work on etc. and it's way cheaper. The reason why it wasn't used for boat building in the past is that it's not very rot-resistant. Actually hardly at all. However with the epoxy coating strip plank method that would be of little concern.

What do you think?

Jack

 

We use Norwegian spruce and pine (pinus sylvestris). It's a bit heavier than cedar, but also stronger and stiffer. Light pine can be the same weight as spruce.

 

Yes, Pinus Sylvestris sounds fine too. Basically we have spruce, pine and fir over here. Fir would be a bit more expensive again but Spruce and Pine are really plentiful and rather cheap. Probably even cheaper from Russia or Scandinavia.

There are differences in the natural resin content though, would that be a problem?

 

If you are not looking for the lightest possible structure, then Siberian Larch has been used successfully.

 

I think pine is very easy to work with, it feels a bit softer than spruce.
Then spruce is normally lighter and stiffer (for the weight), it's popular for spars for example.
Larch is quite expensive here, but more durable.

I think the quality of the wood is more important than species.
Straight grained and knot free strips will bend smothly and evenly.

 

Well I suppose that answered my question, thanks a lot!

 

Don't know if you could get it over there, but we are using a lot of Kiri now, lighter than cedar, very rot resistant and nice to work with.

Dave

http://www.highpointtimber.com.au/

 

Another line of thinking would be to look at what types of wood are used for exterior construction, in your area, that are usually left untreated. What type of woods are used to build (board)fences or to side houses. That might lead you to a rot resistant variety in your area of the world. I believe that you are right in being able to use a less rot resistant variety with epoxy encapsulation. If you can track down a rot resistant wood in your neck-o-the-woods, at a reasonable price and use the epoxy methods, you'll have the best of both worlds.

 

**** pine with cuprous oxide, no thanks

Like end grain balsa?? double no thanks, that stuff rot's like newspaper

Dave