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  #1  
Old 02-22-2008, 02:52 PM
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mongo75 mongo75 is offline
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Tips on rebuilding a velvet drive 72C

I'm installing a velvet drive in my project, and since I don't know it's history, I want to rebuild it (new seals, clutches) so I KNOW that I have a reliable unit, vice finding out the hard way 50 miles offshore....

Could you guys maybe throw some tips my way, anything that might not be in the manual (which I do have) that might make it easier or faster to do, or any special tools I might need? I've never rebuilt a transmission, but I can do just about anything else.

Thanks!
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:08 AM
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gonzo gonzo is offline
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The manuals are obsolete. The newest version is about 20 years old. The reverse clutch needs to have the clearance set correctly. Make sure the piston is bottomed out when you measure or the setting will be too loose. If you call the company, they are pretty helpfull.
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Old 03-14-2008, 11:40 AM
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mongo75 mongo75 is offline
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Gonzo,
Thanks for the insight. I haven't taken it apart yet so I'm not 100% clear on visualizing what you mean, but I do understand it. I'll take all the advice I can get on this one, so if you get bored one day soon, please feel free to write me a book! Otherwise, I'll see if the company has a new more up to date repair manual.
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:21 PM
Cuervo Cuervo is offline
 
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Here is a website that has all the manuals.

http://www.engine-cemberci.com/engin...VET/VELVET.HTM

I just rebuilt my 71c and it seemed rather easy. There are couple of clearances that need to be set. The clutch pack was the easy part. You also need a press and what they call specail tools to set a couple of bearings.

The front pump gear needs to marked with a sharpie so you put it back in the correct way. I guess it wears to the pump housing and needs to go in the same way it comes out.

The one thing I'm not sure of, and can't find in the books is if there is a specific way to put the pinion cage and output shaft assembly in. There are what look like oil holes in the housing and the shaft but I did not see if they need to line back up or if they were lined up in the first place.

Good luck.
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:26 PM
Cuervo Cuervo is offline
 
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I finally got some good weather and took the boat out for a test drive after rebuilding the 71C.

It work out really well. The forward clutchs work really well and in neutral it just sits still. The reverse is working well too.

The best note is that I no longer have a slipping in forward. The boat pulls very hard from 15 to 50 MPH. Its nothing like before!!!
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Old 04-21-2008, 06:36 PM
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mongo75 mongo75 is offline
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Cuervo- did you replace the pump? How can you tell if it needs replacing??
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:04 PM
Cuervo Cuervo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo75 View Post
Cuervo- did you replace the pump? How can you tell if it needs replacing??
I did not replace the pump assembly. I did, however, replace the O ring and seal. They both came in the kit. I'm not sure what a bad pump would look like but the gears in mine look very clean without any abrashions or scaring. I would think that if it had worn down so much you would not have the line pressure needed to get forward or revers movement.

In fact, the only items that look bad were the reverse clutch disc and metal bands. I did replace the forward clutch pack as well. I am very happy with my results and would do a rebuild again.

I sent $200 on a shop press and less then $100 on the transmission parts so I'm sure I did ok.
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Old 04-25-2010, 02:23 PM
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I know it's been a couple of years since this post ended, but where is the best place to purchase drive rebuild parts?

Thanks
JOhn ><>
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2010, 01:02 AM
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mongo75 mongo75 is offline
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I bought all my stuff on ebay- its the same exact stuff you can buy at a boat store, but for about half the price. I used a manual and rebuilt it myself, works great!
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:18 AM
KingKudzu KingKudzu is offline
 
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Transmission Rotating in Neutral

Just bought a 74 Ski Nautique with a 71C Velvet Drive transmission. In neutral, the transmission cotinues to move. Any thoughts on what the cause is and how to fix it?
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  #11  
Old 11-22-2010, 07:48 AM
sdowney717 sdowney717 is offline
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When I rebuilt my 72C I actually used a garden hose on the clutch piston oil pressure port hole to separate the parts.
These velvet drives are very simple devices. I have rebuilt automatics from cars so I know how to do it.
If it is still moving forward and truly in the neutral zone, it may be something like the clutch plates warped or apply piston not backing off all the way.
If your somewhat mechanically minded, get a service manual and have at it.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:00 AM
sdowney717 sdowney717 is offline
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Reason I ended up taking this apart was I had a leak at the front. Turned out there is a large rubber ring and the cast iron face had some surface rust which prevented this from sealing. It was a big enough leak it had to get fixed. So I put in new seals and clutches and kept the old which were actually just fine.

I have read the CG is actually looking in your bilge for oil and it they find it, they will fine you on the assumption you will pump it out when the bilge pump runs.
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  #13  
Old 11-22-2010, 01:06 PM
Williamsotto Williamsotto is offline
 
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Thompson boat

I have a 28 ft Thompson boat they said that was made by Rodney Thompson of Florida in 1977 and I have the hool and I what to rebuilding for fishing any information is going to be apprecited. In the expecifications of the boat or where can finded.
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