Luhrs 28 with single 454 V-drive

[TollyWally]

That is a good thing. If you don't feel "wiggle" things are looking up. Good luck with your rot issues etc. You are doing this work at the perfect time of year.

[7228sedan]

Thanks for all the input. I'll post an update when I get the transmission mounted.

[mongo75]

I'm glad that ou guys posted the 72c is an inch longer, because on my 25' Luhrs, I may have to perform some kinda magic to get my 440 & 72c to fit in the same space a 360 & (I'm guessing) 71c was in previously. I'm considering a propshaft spacer and sliding the v-drive back about 6 inches. BTW sedan man- I wound up completely cutting out the old 3/4" stringer, al 15' of it, and replacing it with 2 3/4" sheets epoxied together. If you mount areas are bad, and you don't want to do what I ended up doing, I would neatly cut out the bad part, put new wood in it's place, then put a longer piece on the outside of the stringer, and if possible on the inside to to sandwich it, then glass with epoxy the whole repair.

[Marco1]

Originally Posted by 7228sedan

I have not yet installed the new transmission, however the shaft does slide in & out of the hull fairly easy. It will easilly make up the difference in transmission length; my question now is, should the shaft slide in & out of the hull? It's not like it goes with gravity, but I was able to push on the prop with my hands & slide it forward.

The shaft is free to slide along it's axle, only the stuffing box hitting the coupling would stop it from coming out


If your gearbox is longer, the V drive will go forward yet when you push the shaft forward it will go forward and UP and will not meet the coupling in the new position. It seems you will probably need to rise the eninge a bit.

[7228sedan]

That's what I was hoping the case was. I will need to raise the transmission for the geometry to line up, but I'm not concerned with that. I'm installing all new mounts for the motor & transmission. I'm pretty sure the whole problem with the current transmission was a missalignment. The wooden timber that the port trans mount was bolted to was completely deteriorated and crumbled when I removed the transmission. It actually appears that a battery leaked or exploded at one time. The wood looked like it was soaking in acid. If I understand correctly, I need not finish aligning the motor until the boat goes back into the water?

[Marco1]

I the engine mounts are not solid, the whole thing is disaster in the waiting.
From what I know...that is not much...I think that the engine/gearbox/Vdrive can be aligned with the shaft whilst on blocks and of course after all the wood has been replaced/repaired. I don't know why you would wait for it to be in the water unless there is some flex in the hull when it is on land that will change when on water? Could be I suppose depending on the type of hull... Someone else on this?