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  #1  
Old 11-03-2009, 06:08 AM
Joe Ziehl Joe Ziehl is offline
 
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Water Drain Petcocks on Volvo Penta

I have a 2004 Volvo Penta 3.0 GLP gas, raw water cooled I/O. First time winterizing, as it's been in Florida, till now. I've fogged the engine, treated the gas, and went to drain the water. Removed impeller and drained lower hoses.

I found the petcock for the manifold, and found one block petcock on the port side of the engine. A good amount of water came out of both but here's the problem - the manual refers to TWO block petcocks - one on each side. I cannot find one on the starboard side.

So I'm sitting here wondering if I'm actually done! I did a really thorough and careful job, but I have this lingering doubt.....

I can't find a tech number for Volvo, anywhere, which is annoying. The local dealer wants me to bring it in, which I understand, but I figured he could give me a one word answer - yes or no - regarding the second block petcock.

I'm resisting starting over and running antifreeze throught the system because the whole boat is put away....

Anyway, anyone have any thoughts?

best regards....Joe in Connecticut (bound to get below 32 sometime)
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:42 AM
kenJ kenJ is offline
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draining

I think you are ok. Manuals are pretty generic, individual installations can vary. You probably have about 90% of the water out of the engine. Any remaining will spread out. When it does freeze, there should be plenty of room to expand.
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:00 PM
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gonzo gonzo is offline
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If you have a power steering cooler that needs draining too.
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Old 11-05-2009, 03:05 PM
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CDK CDK is offline
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Next time, before opening the petcocks, remove thermostat cover. Draining the engine goes faster that way and cleaning the thermostat on this engine is very useful to remove deposits that will cause the thermostat to malfunction in the future.

The 2nd petcock was there until the mid 90's. Then GM omitted the threaded hole on starboard.
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:57 AM
Red Tide Red Tide is offline
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I think you will be fine. If the boat is already shrinkwrapped or there is no access to it, I wouldn't worry about it. If not, I'd pour in some RV antifreeze with anticorrosive agent for good measure - I think the anticorrosive property of this is an advantage long-term.
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:53 AM
Joe Ziehl Joe Ziehl is offline
 
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Thanks guys! I suspected my eyes were more "reliable" than the manual. I'll check on the p/s cooler (I don't think I have one), w/ open the thermostat over the weekend, and pour in some RV antifreeze - glad you mentioned that, as I'd have been inclined to use auto stuff.

I assume the thermostat housing might be a good place to pour in the antifreeze, as its a high point in the system??

thanks again and best regards....Joe Z
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:57 PM
Red Tide Red Tide is offline
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The green stuff is as good or better for the engine, but the pink stuff doesn't poison the environment when it's flushed into the lake or inlet in the spring.
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:25 PM
Joe Ziehl Joe Ziehl is offline
 
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Absolutely....that's all we use in the camp trailer, as well.

Thanks, again....Joe
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2009, 07:07 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
The green stuff is as good or better for the engine, but the pink stuff doesn't poison the environment when it's flushed into the lake or inlet in the spring.

The green stuff is FAR better for the engine as it leaves a coating that helps prevent rust.

Not in the pink stuff.

Simply SAVE the green stuff , and reuse it every year.

Sealed can only as it will poison a pet that drinks it (sweet taste)

FF
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