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#1
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| Head removal Ford 302 marine I have a 1977 Glastron and am 100% i blew the head gaskets. I am trying to remove them but the exhaust manifolds are a huge bother to get off. Also there are 10 bolts to get these heads off which i find weird. ANy ideas other than pulling the entire motor (im doing this in my own garage) as to how to get those exhaust maifolds out of the way so I can get the heads off would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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| The exhaust manifolds are bolted to the heads. You have to remove them first.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#3
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| Yep, the manifolds have to come off, as well as an assorted set of devices and brackets. Hit them repeatedly with penetrating oil (PB Blaster is good) for a full day (once an hour all after noon) and they'll eventually get soaked and break free. Also use 6 point sockets, not open ended wrenches or 12 pointers, you'll just round off the bolts with 12's and open ended wrenches. Of course an impact wrench is a handy thing too. |
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#4
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| The answer im looking for is to the question of how can I get the manifolds away from the heads because the heads have studs and the manifolds hit the side of the seat which are fiberglass and I don't want to ruin |
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#5
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| Im not asking how to remove them I know how to do that this is just angering me beyond belief because those studs are about one quarter inch to long |
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#6
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| Can you provide a picture? |
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#7
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| Is the seat molded in or bolted in? You may have to remove the seat, too.
__________________ Hoyt "Lightning is very selective and will not strike crap." Wynand N "We Redistribute World's Wealth By Climate Policy" UN IPCC Official |
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#8
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| In those installations,you have to take the engine out. The time you lose trying to do it otherwise is more than the couple of hours to take the whole thing off.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#9
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| I vaguely remember the aft portions of the cockpit on those Gonzo. The aft sections of the deck cap form the seats and the lower half of the engine box. I also remember cutting some well placed access plates on one several years ago. A rectangular hole and cover on each side of the box. The cover was made from some 1/4" plywood and screwed back in place, after the deed was done. |
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#10
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| I can see how it may be possible, but taking the engine out is only a couple of hours.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#11
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| Agreed . . . |
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#12
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| Glastron77Qs Also there are 10 bolts to get these heads off which i find weird. the 10 bolts are arranged so that there is equal pressure on the head around all 4 cylinders,.sort of like putting a box over each cylinder, but the boxes over lap inboard ,..this is because only one cylinder fires at a time ,..there is no need for doubling the inboard bolts,.. making 4 bolts per cylinder or 16 bolts,unless you have individual heads for each cylinder like on some diesels.. I would use a copper ringed replacement head gasket,..and if you can not find the right torque specs ,..generally marine/auto conversion motors are torqued to motor vehicle specs plus 10 ftlbs,.. for racing motors the bolts would be replaced everytime the head was removed,..but for your application the bolts that are there will be fine ,..just check for cracks in the threads of the bolt,. if you find cracked or stripped threads ..replace the bolt,.. I would run a tap or something to clean the bolt holes in the block before installing a new bolt if I found stripped threads. DO NOT put lock tite on the head bolts,..never sieze is ok on all the bolts ..manifold included,..builders preference |
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