Could throttle cable be the culprit?

[TN-boater]

Here's what's going on;

I'm getting nothing to the starter. I replaced the starter yesterday. Shifter is in "neutral" position (I have had some issues with it in the past in trying to find that "sweet spot" in order for it to start). Battery is ok. Reset button doesn't appear to be the issue. I do see a draw on the volt gauge when I turn the key completely over as if attempting to start. Where should I begin to look first? Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

[gonzo]

To start, give the make, model and year of your engine.

[TN-boater]

Sorry about that gonzo.

Boat is a '92 Bayliner 1850 Capri 3.0 4 cyl mercruiser with alpha one sterndrive.

[gonzo]

There could be a short on the wiring. Also, I don't remember if those models have a solenoid. That could be having a bad contact too.

[TN-boater]

Gonzo, those models do have a solenoid. New starter assembly w/soleniod installed just a few days ago. Do I need to check the ignition switch or neutral safety feature? If so, how do I do that? BTW thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

[gonzo]

To check the neutral safety switch, disconnect the two yellow with red marker wires going to the switch at the throttle. Connect them together with a jumper wire and try the starter. If it works, it is the switch. If it doesn't put a meter or test light at the starter and see if there is power going to the solenoid when you try to start. If there isn't the ignition switch is the problem. It can also be the wiring in between.

[CDK]

There are two solenoids, one on the starter motor itself, the other on a bracket under the main circuit breaker. That one often causes trouble because the interior quickly melts when the contacts are corroded.

If you see the voltage drop but you don't here the relay clicking, that's where the problem is.

[TN-boater]

Thanks for the help fellas. CDK, does that particular solenoid have to be replaced or can it be bypassed? Is there a way to test the solenoid under the main circuit breaker?

[CDK]

It is there because the key switch cannot handle the 40 A inrush current of the main solenoid, so bypassing is not an option.
You could use a test lamp to check if the coil contact gets 12V when the key is turned all the way, but you wrote there was a visible voltage drop, so it will be powered but doesn't close the main contact to actuate the starter solenoid.

Replacing it with a cheap 12v/40A automotive relay will prevent this from ever happening again. The 2 solenoids on the bracket of the hydraulic unit have a similar construction. When my boat was powered with twin Mercruisers I replaced them all with automotive equivalents and never had electrical problems again.

[tunnels]

Originally Posted by TN-boater

Here's what's going on;

I'm getting nothing to the starter. I replaced the starter yesterday. Shifter is in "neutral" position (I have had some issues with it in the past in trying to find that "sweet spot" in order for it to start). Battery is ok. Reset button doesn't appear to be the issue. I do see a draw on the volt gauge when I turn the key completely over as if attempting to start. Where should I begin to look first? Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Check all the battery terminals check the connections to the solenoid and then to the starter take then off and clean dont just wiggle them solenoid i would be looking at . do you hear a click at the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position each time ?? Turn back the insulating covers on the solinoid terminls and short a screwdriver across !! it will spark but of the starter goes then you will need a new solinoid , simple but very easy way to start you motor if it happens when you are out on the water .Dont recommend doing it to often mind you !

[TN-boater]

Here's the latest as of this evening me working on the boat. I ran several tests using a continuity tester and the multimeter. Not much help cuz I don't know exactly what to look forn but I did discover this...on the slave solenoid I made contact from the red wire to the other post on the solenoid and it began to turn the engine. Although when I I turn the ignition key I still get nothing. I did put the tester on the ignition switch/terminal and I was getting the correcting readings. Do you gentlemen have any suggestioins on where to go from here? Thanks

[tunnels]

Originally Posted by TN-boater

Here's the latest as of this evening me working on the boat. I ran several tests using a continuity tester and the multimeter. Not much help cuz I don't know exactly what to look forn but I did discover this...on the slave solenoid I made contact from the red wire to the other post on the solenoid and it began to turn the engine. Although when I I turn the ignition key I still get nothing. I did put the tester on the ignition switch/terminal and I was getting the correcting readings. Do you gentlemen have any suggestioins on where to go from here? Thanks

There is a small wire going from the ign switch to the solenoid turn the key to the start possition with one of the wires from the multimeter and the other( Black ) prod on the motor and see it you get a reading ? (12 volts) if there is a reading then the solenoid needs to be replaced with a new one !!!!

[CDK]

This is the wiring diagram for your engine.
Shorting yel-red to red-pur on the slave solenoid should power the starter motor: if it doesn't, replace the slave.

[TN-boater]

You gentleman are unbelievable. Pretty cool to have folks with y'alls knowledge around for idiots like me. This weekend, as I hope to be putting the finishing touches on that money pit (my boat) sitting in my driveway. I will certainly lift a glass of Gentleman Jack (superpremium twice charcoal filtered Tennessee Whiskey) in y'alls honor! Cheers! and thanks for all of the help.

[CDK]

I envy you for the Gentleman Jack. Click on the Post Feedback button before you're to drunk to find it.