| ||||
|
#1
| ||||
| ||||
| Where to begin Hi, I am looking at building a storm hood to cover my sliding companionway hatch on my Tanzer 26. I have used epoxy and glass to repair tabbing, parts and rebuild a mast step but I have never gone about fabricating a piece from scratch before. It is basically a rectangle with around 3-4" deep lip and I was thinking I would core it wit a thin core-cell foam. So I have been reading here and there about plugs,molds, and materials to make them and I am at a crossroad and thought I would ask for some help and opinions on what others would use to make such a part. Any thoughts? |
|
#2
| ||||
| ||||
| Is it critical that this thing be as light as possible? If you're not trying to get it to be ridiculously light, I think you'd be far ahead in time, cost and ease of construction if you just build it out of wood and epoxy. Building a mould takes at least as long as building the part you'll get from it.
__________________ - Matt Marsh - Marsh Design (small craft blog and designs) |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| Matt intersting design. It is in development stage? Daniel ![]() |
|
#4
| ||||
| ||||
| Daniel- yes, that thing ( Trailer cruiser revisited... as a trimaran ) is in development and I'll be starting to build some of her components later this summer. CSX- sorry for the digression.
__________________ - Matt Marsh - Marsh Design (small craft blog and designs) |
|
#5
| ||||
| ||||
| no problem. nice vessel too. I'm not real concerned about weight, but I don't mind taking the time to learn the mold etc. and the less weight the better If I made a plug what type of wood would I use? maybe a female mold out of Styrofoam would be easier? |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
The easiest way I am aware of, is ply over temporary frames (I assume you have a "profile" in the hatch?), probably two sheets of thinner ply to make bending easy. It is hard to beat a sheet of ply in terms of weight to strength relation. Properly sealed it may outlast the rest of the boat. Regards Richard |
|
#7
| ||||
| ||||
| And if you build those frames with reverse curve, and substitute Abitibi or other "whiteboard" for the plywood, presto-zoomo--instant mold. You can build the lip around the edges right in the mold. You'll likely want to radius the sharp corner at the lip. I used to use clay (and a #10 screw with flat washer attached, as a "radius scraper") to build the radius. I'd apply mold release wax to the clay with my fingertip, and I'd make sure there was a sufficient layer of gelcoat over the clay in order to sand and polish the less-than-ideal finish to perfection. |
|
#8
| ||||
| ||||
| Is there a certain type of clay that needs to be used? The white board sounds like a good idea. Easy to bend |
|
#9
| ||||
| ||||
| I used a clay that came from a fiberglass supplier. I'm not sure if a kid's clay is suitable, but I suspect that even peanut butter would work if it was thick enough not to flow. (I've built tons of molds from whiteboard. To avoid nail holes, use contact cement.) |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Where to begin? | mosquitolaGOON | Boatbuilding | 3 | 04-14-2008 07:56 AM |
| where do i begin? | jeremy5780 | Boat Design | 2 | 01-10-2008 11:30 PM |
| Do I need to begin again ?? | ford-m | Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building | 3 | 05-20-2007 06:58 AM |
| Where do I begin? | B22any | Boat Design | 1 | 09-08-2006 02:49 AM |
| Where to begin? | eitanwaks | Boat Design | 7 | 07-15-2006 05:48 PM |