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  #1  
Old 12-20-2006, 07:15 PM
LEASEGUY LEASEGUY is offline
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what composit material is best

I need (2) 3/4 thick 46"x72" sheets. Maybe 1/2 if it is bondable. replacing 2 bulk head walls, strength is important. must come up with affordable solution.
wood is out did that 8 yrs ago and here I am again.
Please any info greatly appreciated....
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2006, 04:48 AM
yokebutt yokebutt is offline
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Foam panels with glass skins are good but expensive. Just do the wood again, but don't cheat this time.
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  #3  
Old 12-22-2006, 06:01 PM
tja tja is offline
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Tja

Greenwood products make plywood XL Panels that are guarentied for life not to rot or delaminate or they will replace the panel and cover all lobor costs. I've used the stuff before and it is very good material with no voids. Can be found any maney merinas that do good boat repair. It's also used buy a lot of boat manufacturers. Good Luck.
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  #4  
Old 12-22-2006, 09:40 PM
LEASEGUY LEASEGUY is offline
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Thanks for your advise. The original material was ply 5/8s with a smooth white skin on both sides. This bulkhead seperates cabin from aft and both sides should have a finish. I thought of using mica over ply but it freezes here in Ny and I was told the glue would give in low temps?
Yo yokebutt, whatca mean cheat?
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  #5  
Old 12-23-2006, 03:50 PM
roob76 roob76 is offline
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Quote:
whatca mean cheat
i think what he means is use epoxy resin and make sure the bulkhead is completely encapsulated. if it were me i would use wood and epoxy make sure you encapsulate the edges also and sheath both sides with a fiberglass skin.
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  #6  
Old 12-23-2006, 07:43 PM
LEASEGUY LEASEGUY is offline
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Thanks Roob76,
I did that last time around and the edges did hold ,I even waxed over my srew heads. This time I want a composit material, any ideas?
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  #7  
Old 12-23-2006, 08:43 PM
roob76 roob76 is offline
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with composites you have a few choices. you have nidacore,Divinycell ,corecell,coosa board and others. i have not used any of theese so i can't tell you how to use it but i can point you here which shows Divinycell and renicell and pre fabbed nidacore panels(fiberglass skinned from factory) being used.
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  #8  
Old 12-24-2006, 01:45 PM
LEASEGUY LEASEGUY is offline
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Thanks roob76, Happy Holidays!
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  #9  
Old 12-24-2006, 03:47 PM
roob76 roob76 is offline
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no problem and happy holidays to you also!!
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  #10  
Old 12-24-2006, 04:20 PM
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kach22i kach22i is offline
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http://www.coosacomposites.com/
Quote:
Coosa Composites manufactures high-density, fiberglass-reinforced polyurethane foam panels that are used as structural and non-structural components for OEM suppliers in the marine, transportation, aeronautical and numerous other industries. Coosa produces 4x8ft. or 4x9.5ft. sheets or can pre-cut and kit parts for those that prefer an extra level of customized service.
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  #11  
Old 12-26-2006, 10:19 AM
LEASEGUY LEASEGUY is offline
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Thanks KACH,

That sounds right for me.
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2006, 11:59 AM
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PAR PAR is offline
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Baltec panels or similar are what you want to look for. The cost will be much higher then good quality plywood. I would recommend you address the problems leading to your difficulties, rather then install something that will not tend the leak problem.

Originally the panel was MDO (white faced ply) and these have had questionably quality in the last 15+ years.

Composite panels can be made from many different materials, using several different construction methods. You need to understand the stresses and forces involved in it's application to specify the proper panel. Currently, we don't have enough information about your boat, to make a reasonable recommendation.

Is this the old Silvertron your still working on? Those hulls were chopper over ply and not very well done, most being very heavy for what they are. The method and materials used were flawed (as you're finding out) and you have little choice but to use better of both. Do you have pictures?
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2006, 04:24 PM
LEASEGUY LEASEGUY is offline
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You hit the nail on the head, MDO was the original material and it was water leaking from poorly designed aluminum window trays that decayed the bulkheads and they still leak.My replacement was 3/4 MDO but when i picked it up it had a mystery layer of pres board and ironiclly it is the white surface which is taking water. I am willing to refit both bulk heads but I really want it to be the last F---n time.
This is a 1975 Silverton Single V8 w Vdrive a bit of a slug but a family bay boat (Great South Bay LI NY) I have Pictures of the resurection i wil select a few and post em soon. Next one is all glass even if i have to put a pair of motors and drives in it!
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2006, 10:09 AM
JR-Shine JR-Shine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEASEGUY View Post
I need (2) 3/4 thick 46"x72" sheets. Maybe 1/2 if it is bondable. replacing 2 bulk head walls, strength is important. must come up with affordable solution.
wood is out did that 8 yrs ago and here I am again.
Please any info greatly appreciated....
For a pre-made panel, we have been using/selling the 20mm nidacore panels with good success. Right now we are putting in the sole of our 222 aquasport using them. Here is the gallery....

http://209.190.4.227/gallery/thumbna...um=495&page=11

For a structural bulk head (like our motor well bulkhead in that same gallery), I prefer to make my own from Biaxial Glass/epoxy/H80 Divinycell.

Each core material has its + and -
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2006, 11:05 AM
JR-Shine JR-Shine is offline
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sorry, double post
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Last edited by JR-Shine : 12-27-2006 at 11:06 AM. Reason: sorry, double post
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