Veneer adhesive

[jbassion]

The wood bulk heads in my sailboat are trashed beyond the normal sanding & varnish restore. I have access to good paper backed teak veneer, but I could use a source / recommendation for an adhesive. I'm not sure if the everyday 'mica adhesive would hold up in a boat. Comments?
Jerry

[BTScow]

I would use thickened epoxy. With the proper preparation (wiping it down with acetone, and having a rough face) you shouldn't have a problem for the life of the boat.

Crayke

[jbassion]

Epoxy is great for areas that can be clamped evenly while setting, but a large flat surface like a bulk head needs a contact type adhesive. I was just asking if anyone has had experience with various brands of a contact adhesive. The mica on my galley top is still tight.

[BTScow]

By using a notched trowel one is able to apply a metered amount of epoxy on the bulkhead. Jerry is correct with regard to the even clamping pressure - however, with a .25'' or even .125'' trowel one is able to apply enough material ensure a void-free bond. Once the glue is applied to the bulkhead, the veneer should also be coated before installation to make sure the glue joint is not starved. Put the veneer on the bulkhead and hold it in place with staples - as many as you feel necessary. The key is to have the thickening agent in the epoxy be roughly (very roughly) the same color as the wood so any squeeze out through the staples will be masked. I know this method works as I have done it with very good results.
Now, I have never used mica adhesive - but is sounds like as good as any option (and probably easier ????. Any other thoughts).

Crayke

[SamSam]

Regular contact adhesive will work. Put it on both surfaces and let it 'dry' until none comes off when touched, read the can, there is usually a 1 or 2 hour window. If it gets too dry or soaks in and leaves dry areas apply another coat. Use a roller and a good amount of pressure to affix, don't trap any air bubbles. Make sure whatever you finish the teak with won't effect the cement. If you use a solvent based cement maybe a water based finish will work. If you use a fan to ventilate the vapors, it's best to push the air through the space rather than suck the vapor laden air through the fan and its electrical sparkiness. Sam

[jbassion]

I wasn't sure if regular Contact adhesive would work. I have worked a lot with it doing mica work. I was planning to varnish the wood after the glue has some time to set up.
Thanks again,
Jerry

[SamSam]

Originally Posted by jbassion

I wasn't sure if regular Contact adhesive would work. I have worked a lot with it doing mica work. I was planning to varnish the wood after the glue has some time to set up.
Thanks again,
Jerry

If it's not directly in the weather it works. I got to thinking after I posted yesterday that I've done a bunch of marquetry using veneers+contact cement (not water based)+polyurethane finish(not water based) and never had any problems with incompatibilities.
Then as I was making this reply, I got to thinking I never used any teak veneers. I don't know how well contact cement will work on teak, due to its oils or waxes or whatever is in it. Here is a good veneer site with a bunch of info...
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/index.html

Some of the marquetry I did was curved. I would do it up as shown below, wrap it around a can with elastic and put it in the oven for a few minutes, it worked great...
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html



This came from the same site at the HTTP place below. You might want to call these people for more information. Sam

"2. While paper-backed veneer is intended for interior use, it can be used on an exterior surface only if an expoxy application is used. Call for details."

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/hints.html

[jbassion]

Great link,
--Lots of good information on this site, thanks. Good for price comparison too.