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  #1  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:22 PM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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transom core clamps

Hey guys what are you using for clamps to re-core a transom

Any pictures ?

Somebody hear had made some nice clamps with steel tube and scissor jacks for lifting a small car. I saw the picture here sometime back and never got around to making them. Did a search of a bunch or transom repair jobs but did not see them.

If you know of these great if not I could use some advise on where to buy or better how to fabricate some useful clamps for transom replacement jobs
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:23 AM
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gonzo gonzo is offline
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Do you need clamps to hold the plywood core in place?
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:51 PM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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Quote:
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Do you need clamps to hold the plywood core in place?
Yes and to help sandwich against the skin, versus a bunch of screws to draw it in tight

Thank you
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:49 PM
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If it has an outdrive, rough cut the hole and bolt through some 2X4 as clamps. Otherwise, I usually get creative with existing holes. For example, the drain, u-bolts and cleats. Long welding vise-grip type clamps work well too.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:43 PM
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hoytedow hoytedow is offline
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You can also:
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transom core clamps-easy-clamp.jpg  
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:15 PM
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Boat repair and new construction is mostly about problem solving. Engineering on the fly, is also a helpful skill. Is it really difficult to picture a few sets of cantilevered braces and a length of all-thread or wedges on the other side of a captured fulcrum?
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:14 PM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAR View Post
Boat repair and new construction is mostly about problem solving. Engineering on the fly, is also a helpful skill. Is it really difficult to picture a few sets of cantilevered braces and a length of all-thread or wedges on the other side of a captured fulcrum?
Thanks for the oh so friendly reply

What I really wanted was to see a picture of the clamp someone on the forum fabricated from a car jack and square steel tube. Or others ingenious systems

I was really looking at how best to deal with a very deep full transom straight shaft boat. with out many existing holes.

Also I have not done a large number of these type repairs so I was just looking for some input.
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:17 PM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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Thanks Gonzo and Hoytedow I appreciate you taking the time to give an answer or post a picture
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:58 PM
thill thill is offline
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I second the thanks for the picture. I'm considering doing a simple transom job using plywood, and that diagram is great. (I'm a carpenter, and my mind went straight to screws!)

True, you could have just described it, but the picture made for instant comprehension. Thanks, Hoytedow!
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:35 PM
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waikikin waikikin is offline
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Some thing like a extra strong & long plank nipper could help, you need to spread the clamping pressure over some area though, her's the first google image that came out ... http://www.google.com.au/imgres?q=pl...t:429,r:14,s:0 Some nippers use a wedge in the back, what ever you use do a dry run or two to get hang of them & to tune the operation before the goo is mixed. Jeff.
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  #11  
Old 03-03-2012, 03:37 AM
tunnels tunnels is offline
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Vac bag it and save the agro !!! clamps are to localised and only clamp where they touch !!
Bag the whole transom inside and out side and suck it completely together !!!!!
Suck takes tha guess work out of it bonding of not bonding and plastic is easyer to work with reather than stick pushing the inside and distorting the outside when the pressure is applied to just the inside !!.

Bag it !!!
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:27 AM
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Bagging works well, but most times braces cut from lengths of 2x4, wedged against the interior of the boat, are all that are necessary. I've never needed clamps and usually glue the core together outside the boat, rather than in place. The assembled core is then placed against the hull shell, in a bed of thickened goo and lightly braced, to unsure good contact. Heavy clamping isn't necessary nor desirable with epoxy. While the core to hull shell interface is kicking off, I fillet the edges and tab it into the hull shell, making chemical bonds and taking advantage of any ooze out around the perimeter of the core.

This should become fairly apparent, by doing several "dry runs" so you can arrange clamps, braces, materials and tools for the actual job.
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:03 PM
pescaloco pescaloco is offline
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Thanks for the replies

Thanks for the pics waikkin and hoytedow
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:21 AM
brokensheer brokensheer is offline
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I bought some less expensive boat stands, welded a c frame. then welded some pipe to the frame and us the screw pads to tighten her down, the 10x10 pads does real good I have four on a small one and six on a lg. one,,
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2012, 04:45 PM
Matt Gent Matt Gent is offline
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Core (3X) laminated separately. The flexibility of the 2x4 in the weak-wise bending direction helps to get a (more) even load distribution. Also, this is a small motorboard style transom.
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