Sole tie in??

Any ideas on how to tie new plywood sole to the 6" of old lam.? Planning on reinstalling old non-skid. The sole delamiated pretty easy. Not worried about the cut line that will be there when I am done. Thought about using epoxy thickened with silica (peanut butter) between the new glassed plywood and the 6" lip thats left. Just a little concerned because the sole was glassed in from the bottom originally, and as you can see there isnt a stringer under the joint. any help is appreciated. thanks.

 

If you plan on sliding it under the old laminate I imagine the new floor will have to be at least 2 if not 3 or 4 pieces. I think what you took out was a plywood core, glassed to the bottom of the deck cap/inside liner/floor while it was still in the mold, before the whole thing was attached to the hull at the rubrail. Not that I have a solution, but it might make it clearer what the situation is so someone else can answer. What you suggest seems workable, with screws through the old lip to act as clamps and pull the new floor up until the goop sets or to assist the epoxy in permanantly holding the old and new together. Sam

 

Im doing it right now

We replaced everything

 

Buck,
Looking good! What kind/size boat is it anyway? Is that the original floor system? Will you have access to the exhaust, tanks etc? Sam

 

36 Trojan Sedan

thats the difficult part. do you redesign the grid or replace. We modified the crown on the deck and added 1/2" of slope towards the transom to effect better drainage. we replaced all of the fore and aft supports, a majority of the cross beams and most of the longitudinal grid. Between tabbing and hundreds of screws its now ready for a fighting chair. The exhaust is new and double clamped now. We relocated the genny access hatch, built a platform and boxes for the inverter batteries and of course painted everything white. It took over 300 board feet of mahoghany so far and two gallons of resin and one gallon of epoxy, two gallons of white. And a lot of hours. my guys are trained carpenters and riggers but we still logged about three solid weeks for three guys. We rewired new shore power, 110 for outlets and 12V for bilges, instatrim and running lights.

 

Man5, Did you understand what I said about the deck having to be in 2 or more pieces? (maybe) Does that plywood stringer that looks like it is cut off get replaced? If it does, I would imagine that and the one on the other side would support the center portion of the deck so the epoxy goop connection to the old laminate would only have to support the part of the deck from the stringer to the side and not the whole deck. If there is no joint in the plywood at the stringer, so the ply would span from the center past the stringer to the side, the ply would be cantileverd somewhat and the epoxy goop connection would be even less stressed. Sam

 

every joint or connection must be supported in a continous manner.

 

I cut out the rotten sections of stringers on port side(2). I was thinking about putting the sole joints perpendicular to the stringers with a backer (3/4" x 8"?) under the new joints. thought about the cantilever and just was not sure if there could be a better way. thanks for the help. There is a fuel tank hatch (2'x6'?) in the middle.