Ski Boat Stringer/Sole Replacement

[TripleCrownNC]

Grant,

I see I am not the only one who remembers what your Mayor said!

What info do you have on water penetrating resins and epoxy? Just shooting off the top of my head I would guess that anything that is in constant contact with water might allow a very small amount of water to pass (feels slightly damp), anything that is wet for a few days then allowed to dry would not. Is there such a data table where the permeability rate vs material vs thickness has been generated?

The pin hole thing sounds plausable but I cannot see how pin holes from layer to layer could possibly line up?

Grant, as usual, going the extra mile!

[ratrace2]

Originally Posted by TripleCrownNC

Grant,

I see I am not the only one who remembers what your Mayor said!

What info do you have on water penetrating resins and epoxy? Just shooting off the top of my head I would guess that anything that is in constant contact with water might allow a very small amount of water to pass (feels slightly damp), anything that is wet for a few days then allowed to dry would not. Is there such a data table where the permeability rate vs material vs thickness has been generated?

The pin hole thing sounds plausable but I cannot see how pin holes from layer to layer could possibly line up?

Grant, as usual, going the extra mile!

Epoxy locks out the water best.
The pin holes don't line up. The Roving creates channels that connect them, when laying up by hand

[grantn]

awwwww, man, you gonna make me try to have to remember that? lol.

here's a couple of sources:

http://www.compositesworld.com/sb the composites world sourcebook

http://www.marinecomposites.com/ marine composites

dig around on the west and mas epoxy sites.

sorry i can't remember the exact place i saw that, but there's really some great info in there.

(sorry rick, not trying to hi-jack your thread)

[TripleCrownNC]

I read some of the articles there. What i get with a quick review is that the resin or epoxy will absorb water over time in complete immersion. Will do it faster at elevated temps. Will plateau at approx 2% w/w. Will loose some structural integrity, approx 40% over a period of 10 years (depending on temp), but this is not attributable to the water content (in my mind) as there was no control presented. I am sure the composite will loose strength just with age

[rickr]

Got some time to work on the Supra a little more.
Stringers and floors (crossmembers) are done and it's time for some bilge paint and rigging

I am going to use Interlux Bilgekote (Enamel) and would like to use some "Splatter" to hide some of my imprefections

Anyone have some suggestions for doing the "Splatter"??? A quick searcd suggested a comb and air but I would think that would be a little tricky.
THANKS!

[PAR]

You can do splatter paint jobs a few different ways, chemically, with guns or manually. You also can buy aerosol cans that will do the job too, but it would be a few of cans on your boat.

Without having to buy anything, you can use a brush. Dip the brush in some paint and literally fling or flick it onto the surface. I've done quite a few boats this way and though a little tedious, you're boat shouldn't take more then an hour to splatter. Practice first on a piece of cardboard. You'll need to figure out about how much paint you need in the brush to produce a nice splatter effect and not make huge drops or have it look like an animal with blue blood was killed in your bilge. It ain't hard and I find that smacking the handle of the brush against my other hand makes the best splatters.

[rickr]

Is it OK to use Bilgekote in the bilge directly over sanded and cleaned epoxy?
Or do I need to use a primer?

[the1much]

have you already bought the bilgekote?

[Herman]

I used to roll insides of boats with some thick(ish) paint, leave it to dry for a couple of minutes (I was using PU paint, fast drying...). Then roll it with a roller, used for making structures in house paint. Left a nice structure, where the (sometimes) sloppy laminate did not look too bad.

[rickr]

the 1 much
Already bought the Bilgekote (not returnable). Of course I did not read the directions untill I was getting ready to paint today
I have used it before over stained gelcoat in another boat with great results.

Herman
I would like a smooth finish in the bilge for easy cleaning.

Now I am thinking of just rolling a couple of light coats of epoxy resin over the bilge. It is not in the sun and this Supra is going to be a utility type boat for us so it does not have to be "Perfect" like "The Other Boat"

[the1much]

that bilgekote is the same thing they have here under the name rigkote ,,fer da oil rigs,,,and the stuff can be sprayed over grease and rust, and it dries pretty fast,,,,theres better stuff " international interlac 665fd" you can put it on pretty much straight out of the can,,jus reduce a little,,and its tougher then the "kote" can be rolled over bout anything,,dries FASTER ,, and runs bout $30 a gallon and has a really good looking gloss to it..
their gonna be sending me some other stuff to paint equipment out on the deep sea wells,,,,its an epoxy paint,, "interseal 1100" ,,this stuff is suppose to be so good ya can paint water,,,well,,,,,hehe,,heres what they say ,,,"there is no restrictions regarding dew point temperatures and relative humidity during application and cure. can be applied over damp surfaces, but cannot be spray applied over pools or continuous films of water.interseal is suitable for overcoating intact epoxy systems." ,,,,,,,,,