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#31
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| pics Have a lot of pics but you would need to tell me how to send them, born in 1756, I am not that good with computers. |
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#32
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| Quote:
Go to http://www.thirdcoastcomposites.com/...mine/index.php for project photo's. Sam
__________________ __________________________________________ We build Mini's www.thirdcoastcomposites.com |
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#33
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| mozart, I hear 'ya. I was born 200 years before you, I can't make it happen either. SamIII, You're going to have to be a little more specific as there are 100's, perhaps thousands of photos there. Tom |
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#34
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| You're already going traditional, good, but another factor in why it is better is that lead absorbs some grounding or container shock and hard and fast things transmit it. Perhaps one of the guys that knows how much harder antimony/lead alloy is can tell me if we lose the "container cushion" of soft lead by the addition of too much antimony. |
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#35
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| Quote:
And the lead does not get so hard that the main properties are lost. (but noticeable harder) For a "home made pour" you need to make a pre pour alloy. Use 28% antimon in 10% of the total amount of lead, let it cool down, cut according to the fractions of material you melt in one go. Regards Richard |
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#36
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| Tom, I looked and there are very few pictures of the lead bulb, http://www.thirdcoastcomposites.com/...album=8&page=7 and the next page. I guess I was to busy with the pour to take pictures. Sam
__________________ __________________________________________ We build Mini's www.thirdcoastcomposites.com |
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#37
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| Wow ! You went to a lot of troubles for a mould there. I was just thinking, if you make a former and use paper pulp to make a mould to pour in, won't it be cheaper and easier ? You can make the mould four parts and seal the paper with silicone on flanges. The mounting flange to the boat looks a bit narrow to me. If you are hit by a wave side on I can see you can run into troubles there.
__________________ Regards Fanie Water ! Just gimme water ! |
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#38
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| painting a lead keel? or other treatment Quote:
Looks great mut seface rough due to the glasswater treatment. What would be a good way to treat the surface before mounting/attaching the keel under the boat? |
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#39
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| SamIII, Nice pics, thanks. Great job on the bulb, I hope it stays on!!!! Tom |
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#40
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| Use a planer. It is the easiest and fastest way to remove lead. You can also pound on it with a big hammer.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#41
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| painting lead keel |
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#42
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| If you have voids, fill them with epoxy. However, you can use an electric planer to take down the bumps, specially on the top. Hammering also works well
__________________ Gonzo |
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#43
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| Quote:
It has stayed on with no problems. It has taken one serious grounding that lasted 6 hours in the mild waves and hit a rock with only minor damage to the leading edge of the glass shell on the keel. We have removed some keel bolts after the major grounding and there was no damage to the structure in the bottom of the boat or to the keel bolts themselves. With a 200 mm x 660 mm flange on the top of the keel the 12 x 12 mm keel bolts will keep it in place. Plus we used the designer's design and he has had several hundred's of his boats successfully built and sailed in the Mini Transat, 4200 miles offshore. Sam
__________________ __________________________________________ We build Mini's www.thirdcoastcomposites.com |
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#44
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| Sam, Good to hear. Sleep well. Tom |
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