Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #31  
Old 11-02-2009, 04:58 PM
mozart mozart is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 7
Location: Finland
pics

Have a lot of pics but you would need to tell me how to send them, born in 1756, I am not that good with computers.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 11-03-2009, 07:48 PM
Sam III Sam III is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Rep: 46 Posts: 71
Location: League City, TX USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Submarine Tom View Post
Sam III & mozart (two birds with one stone on this thread),

I am most interested in pictures of your projects.

How about it?

Tom
Tom,

Go to http://www.thirdcoastcomposites.com/...mine/index.php for project photo's.

Sam
__________________
__________________________________________
We build Mini's www.thirdcoastcomposites.com
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:08 PM
Submarine Tom's Avatar
Submarine Tom Submarine Tom is offline
Mariner
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Rep: 937 Posts: 1,941
Location: North America (not USA and not Mexico but, below the 49th parallel, and on the Pacific coast)
mozart,

I hear 'ya. I was born 200 years before you, I can't make it happen either.


SamIII,

You're going to have to be a little more specific as there are 100's, perhaps

thousands of photos there.

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:20 AM
mark775
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
You're already going traditional, good, but another factor in why it is better is that lead absorbs some grounding or container shock and hard and fast things transmit it. Perhaps one of the guys that knows how much harder antimony/lead alloy is can tell me if we lose the "container cushion" of soft lead by the addition of too much antimony.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 11-04-2009, 04:12 AM
apex1
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark775 View Post
You're already going traditional, good, but another factor in why it is better is that lead absorbs some grounding or container shock and hard and fast things transmit it. Perhaps one of the guys that knows how much harder antimony/lead alloy is can tell me if we lose the "container cushion" of soft lead by the addition of too much antimony.
About 3% Mark.
And the lead does not get so hard that the main properties are lost. (but noticeable harder)
For a "home made pour" you need to make a pre pour alloy. Use 28% antimon in 10% of the total amount of lead, let it cool down, cut according to the fractions of material you melt in one go.

Regards
Richard
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 11-04-2009, 09:42 AM
Sam III Sam III is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Rep: 46 Posts: 71
Location: League City, TX USA
Tom,

I looked and there are very few pictures of the lead bulb,

http://www.thirdcoastcomposites.com/...album=8&page=7

and the next page.

I guess I was to busy with the pour to take pictures.

Sam
__________________
__________________________________________
We build Mini's www.thirdcoastcomposites.com
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:43 AM
Fanie's Avatar
Fanie Fanie is offline
Fanie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Rep: 2057 Posts: 4,291
Location: Safrica
Wow ! You went to a lot of troubles for a mould there. I was just thinking, if you make a former and use paper pulp to make a mould to pour in, won't it be cheaper and easier ? You can make the mould four parts and seal the paper with silicone on flanges.


The mounting flange to the boat looks a bit narrow to me. If you are hit by a wave side on I can see you can run into troubles there.
__________________
Regards
Fanie

Water ! Just gimme water !
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 11-05-2009, 01:51 PM
mozart mozart is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 7
Location: Finland
painting a lead keel? or other treatment

Quote:
Originally Posted by mozart View Post
Have a lot of pics but you would need to tell me how to send them, born in 1756, I am not that good with computers.
My 6 foot long 2" wide 7" high lead keel came from the foundry.
Looks great mut seface rough due to the glasswater treatment.
What would be a good way to treat the surface before mounting/attaching the keel under the boat?
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 11-05-2009, 03:05 PM
Submarine Tom's Avatar
Submarine Tom Submarine Tom is offline
Mariner
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Rep: 937 Posts: 1,941
Location: North America (not USA and not Mexico but, below the 49th parallel, and on the Pacific coast)
SamIII,

Nice pics, thanks. Great job on the bulb, I hope it stays on!!!!

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 11-05-2009, 03:17 PM
gonzo's Avatar
gonzo gonzo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Rep: 1493 Posts: 7,447
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Use a planer. It is the easiest and fastest way to remove lead. You can also pound on it with a big hammer.
__________________
Gonzo
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 11-05-2009, 03:34 PM
mozart mozart is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 7
Location: Finland
painting lead keel

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo View Post
Use a planer. It is the easiest and fastest way to remove lead. You can also pound on it with a big hammer.
Ok fine, do you meen an electric one?
Why not put some putty or glass fibre on the surface to avoid hard job?
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 11-05-2009, 05:25 PM
gonzo's Avatar
gonzo gonzo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Rep: 1493 Posts: 7,447
Location: Milwaukee, WI
If you have voids, fill them with epoxy. However, you can use an electric planer to take down the bumps, specially on the top. Hammering also works well
__________________
Gonzo
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 11-07-2009, 06:09 PM
Sam III Sam III is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Rep: 46 Posts: 71
Location: League City, TX USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Submarine Tom View Post
SamIII,

Nice pics, thanks. Great job on the bulb, I hope it stays on!!!!

Tom
Tom,

It has stayed on with no problems. It has taken one serious grounding that lasted 6 hours in the mild waves and hit a rock with only minor damage to the leading edge of the glass shell on the keel. We have removed some keel bolts after the major grounding and there was no damage to the structure in the bottom of the boat or to the keel bolts themselves.

With a 200 mm x 660 mm flange on the top of the keel the 12 x 12 mm keel bolts will keep it in place.

Plus we used the designer's design and he has had several hundred's of his boats successfully built and sailed in the Mini Transat, 4200 miles offshore.

Sam
__________________
__________________________________________
We build Mini's www.thirdcoastcomposites.com
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 11-07-2009, 07:29 PM
Submarine Tom's Avatar
Submarine Tom Submarine Tom is offline
Mariner
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Rep: 937 Posts: 1,941
Location: North America (not USA and not Mexico but, below the 49th parallel, and on the Pacific coast)
Sam,

Good to hear. Sleep well.

Tom
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Pc and CLR vs CP lead... Sean Herron Boat Design 5 02-02-2008 08:33 PM
Lead Bulb matalag Boatbuilding 7 06-26-2006 11:10 AM
lead in aluminium ted655 Sailboats 12 09-06-2005 07:24 PM
Casting lead vabob7 Boat Design 0 03-08-2005 10:32 PM
Schooner Lead Bob A. Boat Design 11 01-23-2004 08:56 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:14 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net